708-255-2438
A homeburning is always upsetting even if it is clearly in one area or the total domicile. The fact that a fire has occurred at all can be extremely shocking. There are various things that can be prepared to help the restoration after a fire. The faster you can launch the fire restoration process the quicker your home and your spirit will be reestablished to the standard.
The initial thing that should be completed after a house fire is to telephone your property holder's insurance affiliate and make a claim. An insurance official may come to your home and then commence administering the claim. After that, you should get the say-so to come back into your locale from the fire department. The more quickly you can return inside the house the quicker you can act to begin remediation. Keep in mind that the longer your home and possessions simply sit after a fire the much more serious the fire damage will be.
Fire damage rebuilding specialists will have to be taken into service to do the better component of the cleanup after a fire, but there are yet smaller steps that can be taken to lessen the gravity of the fire damage until the experts arrive. The primary step to take once you can step into your place is to open the windows. Place a fan and power it on. It is very important that the vapor is cleaned out of the home and that air is flowing from corner to corner of the home. If it is chilly and the furnace still works, change the furnace filter every day until there are no added signs of carbon or vapors. Any damp spots should be soundly dehydrated.
Eliminating as much carbon as workable from the home and your possessions is the succeeding action you can do to be helpful with the fire damage improvement. Use dry scrubbing sponges to take away carbon from the ceilings and walls. Use a vacuum without add-ons to clean excess sooty deposits from fabrics, window shades and mats that are able to be retained. Fix the nozzle of the vacuum cleaner just above the cover of the thing you are laboring on. Don't use a color remover on textiles as this may render excess sooty deposits impossible to take away.
Use a spongy applicator to cleanse pieces of silver or different treasured metals, then cover them and remove them to a better section. Clean counter tops sinks, bathtubs, appliances, and cabinets with all-purpose cleaning products. Be certain you wash all the faucets as sooty deposits may yield lasting marks on these metals.
After the sooty deposit removal is over, it is time to extract the smoke odor from any affected clothing. Cleanse clothing various times in liquid
cleansing agent. Carpets should be high temperature steam cleansed pre and post any patching up is concluded in the spot where the furnishings are located. It is a good idea to let the fire damage remediation pros take care of cleaning furnishing upholstery and window coverings. They will have the correct cleanup items to take away the smoky odor forever. Performing these smaller tasks can help limit the fire damage to your home and personal effects and help make the fire damage improvement of your lodging be finished as briskly as possible.
Thursday, July 29, 2010
After the Storm - Cleanup Chicago IL
During a flood cleanup, the indoor air quality in homes, offices or any type of building may at first glance be the last thing on anyone's mind, but failure to completely and properly dry building interiors and remove any and all contaminated materials can result in serious long-term health risks to building occupants.
Standing water and wet materials are a breeding ground for microorganisms, including bacteria and mold. They can trigger allergic reactions or make asthma symptoms worse, and continue to damage building materials, furnishings long after the flood.
Safety First
Safety is the first concern when entering a home or building that has been damaged by floodwaters. Here are some guidelines:
* Check for structural damage. Do not go in if there is any chance of the building collapsing.
* Upon entering the building, do not use matches, cigarette lighters or any other open flames, since natural gas and other combustible fumes may be trapped inside. Instead, use a flashlight.
* Be careful walking around. After a flood, steps and floors are often slippery with mud and covered with debris, including nails and broken glass.
* Keep the electrical power off until an electrician has inspected the electrical system for safety.
* Until local authorities proclaim the water supply to be safe, boil water for drinking and food preparation vigorously for five minutes before using.
Next Priority -- Drying Out
Once the building has been judged structurally sound, the next priority is to dry it out!
Many microorganisms, including mold begin growing within 24 to 48 hours. As a result, it is imperative to begin the drying process as soon as possible. Here are some steps to follow:
1. Remove standing water
2. Identify and remove animal carcasses and materials affected by the water
3. Dry out the area
4. Wear protective clothing
5. Clean and disinfect
6. Hire professional help
Remove Any Standing Water
Standing water is a breeding ground for microorganisms, which can become airborne and be inhaled. In addition, floodwater that contains sewage or decaying animal carcasses may also harbor infectious microorganisms. To minimize health problems and lessen structural damage, all standing water should be removed as quickly as possible.
Identify and Remove Animal Carcasses and Materials Affected by the Water
If a flood involves sewage-contaminated water or has animal carcasses floating in it, do not try to save any of the materials as exposure to this kind of water carries the additional hazard of infection with the hepatitis A virus.
Bag and throw away any materials that can trap mold. Also, make sure that there is no asbestos or lead in the materials to be thrown out. Disturbing or removing materials containing asbestos (such as in insulation) or lead (such as in lead-based paint) may result in elevated concentrations of those hazardous materials in the air. Just looking will not yield a definitive answer. Sampling may need to be done to verify the materials' composition.
Some materials tend to absorb and keep water more than others. If these materials get wet and cannot be thoroughly cleaned and dried, discard them. Otherwise, they can remain a source of future microbial growth. Mold may begin growing 24 hours after the materials become wet although there may not be any visible signs of it. Molds are mistakenly considered more of a nuisance than a health threat, but their damage can be long lasting. Examples of water-absorbing materials that must be removed and thrown out include:
Ceiling tiles
Insulation
Paper
Rags
Drywall
Mattresses
Wicker furniture
Straw baskets
Upholstered furniture
Old boxes
Stuffed toys
Drapes
Plaster
Cork bulletin boards
Old clothing
Books
These items can retain water and begin growing mold even if they appear to be dry. Some may become contaminated with mold while wet and continue to be a source of mold spores and exposure even after drying. Flooded carpet, for example, can store mold spores for years. Any carpet if not properly maintained can store mold spores, and flooded carpet allows the mold to grow further. Running fans and opening windows is not enough. Once carpet becomes colonized (mold growing in the material), it needs to be discarded unless professional cleaning can effectively remove the microbiological contaminants.
Remove all drywall and insulation damaged by water at least 12 inches above the high water mark. Visually inspect the wall interior and remove any other materials with visible mold growth. (This step may have to be carried out by a licensed contractor.) This removal of mold-contaminated material from the walls is crucial because both allergic and toxic effects can remain in dead spores.
Dry Out the Area
If areas are wet, yet have not suffered from a flood, set up fans and turn on the HVAC system to help dry things out. It is important to do this because microorganisms like mold can quickly begin growing in materials. These can later be released into the air and trigger allergies and asthma attacks along with other health problems. If humidity levels are increased for a long time then dust mites may grow. Dust mites prefer humidity levels above 60 percent.
Be patient! The proper drying out process can take a long time.
In large buildings, the typical drying out period may be 7 to 10 days. It is imperative to not only dry the building, but to dry it out correctly. Drying out large buildings is a very complex process and will require the help of professionals. Believe it or not, if a building is dried out too quickly, interior furnishing materials can become damaged.
If the structure does not have electricity, do not use internal combustion engines indoors since they can quickly emit deadly levels of carbon monoxide. Examples include gasoline-powered generators, camp stoves and lanterns, or charcoal-burning devices. Do not use combustion devices designed for outdoor use inside, even in an emergency, since that can be deadly!
Dress the Part
Because mold may have begun growing in some of the materials that will be removed, be sure to wear appropriate protective clothing. Cleaning up mold can be hazardous to health since mold counts are typically 10 to 1,000 times higher than background levels during the cleaning of mold damaged materials. Here are some steps to follow:
* Wear a dust mask or particulate respirator (sometimes referred to as a N95 or TC-21C particulate respirator) to keep from breathing in airborne spores. However, remember this type of mask will not protect the persion wearing it from the vapors of cleaning or bleach solutions that can irritate eyes, nose, and throat, and damage clothing and shoes. In addition to protective equipment, make sure the working area is ventilated well.
* Wear eye-protection
* Wear gloves. While removing materials, cover rubber gloves that may tear easily with work gloves. Be sure to wear gloves when using cleaning and disinfecting solutions.
* Wear sturdy waterproof boots to protect the feet from hazards, which may not visible in dirty floodwater.
* Wear protective clothing that is easily cleaned or discarded
Clean and Disinfect
All surfaces that are exposed to food, children or pets will need to be thoroughly cleaned. Also clean and disinfect non-porous materials such as glass, plastic or metal. Materials such as the tops of metal desks or file cabinets and concrete, cement, or tile floors can be cleaned using a solution
of one (1) part bleach to 10 parts water. Be sure the area is well ventilated.
* Ask staff or bystanders to leave when these areas are being cleaned.
* Before beginning to clean off any mold, try cleaning a small test patch of it first. If you feel that this adversely affected your health, you should consider paying a licensed contractor or professional to carry out the work.
* Use soap/detergent and hot water or a commercial cleaner. DO NOT APPLY ANY AMMONIA-BASED PRODUCTS! Ammonia or ammonia-based cleaners should not be used since residual ammonia can encourage mold growth.
* Thoroughly scrub all contaminated surfaces (use a stiff brush to clean block walls) with an excessive amount of soap/detergent.
* Rinse well with water
* After thorough cleaning and rinsing, disinfect the area. To disinfect, use a solution of 10 percent household bleach (for example, one (1) cup bleach per five (5) gallons of water) and a little detergent. (The detergent will help with the dirt and oil on the surface and act as a surfactant to help thoroughly wet all surfaces). NEVER MIX BLEACH AND AMMONIA SINCE THEY CAN FORM DEADLY VAPORS!
* Bleach solution should be applied with a handheld garden sprayer. For large exterior areas, you can spray using a garden hose and nozzle but avoid excessive amount of runoff or standing bleach.
* When disinfecting a large structure, make sure the entire surface is wetted (floors, joists and posts). Use a brush or broom to force the solution into crevices.
* Be sure you wash and disinfect the walls, floors, closets, shelves, and contents. The HVAC system should be evaluated for mold contamination and professional help engaged to handle the evaluation and cleaning of the system.
* Work over short time spans and rest in a fresh air location. Provide continuous and controlled ventilation in work area, with the area of contamination kept at a negative pressure in relationship with the rest of the home. Iin other words, air should flow from clean to dirty areas.
* Allow bleach solution to dry naturally for a six to eight hours.
* Air out the house (and the building if windows can be opened) out for about two to three days after the work. Increase airflow in the house by moving furniture away from walls and opening closet doors. Consider increasing outdoor airflow in buildings in which windows cannot be opened.
Hire Professional Help
Most mold remediation guidelines advise that if the area of mold growth is larger than 10 sq. ft. to hire a professional contractor to remove the mold and any contaminated materials. But be careful! After a major storm, unqualified opportunists may offer to help. Be wary of people who drive through neighborhoods offering help in cleaning up or repairs. Be sure that any contractors that are hired for cleanup or repairs are qualified to do the job. Check their credentials and their references. Insurance adjusters may be able to assist in finding reputable and qualified contractors.
Standing water and wet materials are a breeding ground for microorganisms, including bacteria and mold. They can trigger allergic reactions or make asthma symptoms worse, and continue to damage building materials, furnishings long after the flood.
Safety First
Safety is the first concern when entering a home or building that has been damaged by floodwaters. Here are some guidelines:
* Check for structural damage. Do not go in if there is any chance of the building collapsing.
* Upon entering the building, do not use matches, cigarette lighters or any other open flames, since natural gas and other combustible fumes may be trapped inside. Instead, use a flashlight.
* Be careful walking around. After a flood, steps and floors are often slippery with mud and covered with debris, including nails and broken glass.
* Keep the electrical power off until an electrician has inspected the electrical system for safety.
* Until local authorities proclaim the water supply to be safe, boil water for drinking and food preparation vigorously for five minutes before using.
Next Priority -- Drying Out
Once the building has been judged structurally sound, the next priority is to dry it out!
Many microorganisms, including mold begin growing within 24 to 48 hours. As a result, it is imperative to begin the drying process as soon as possible. Here are some steps to follow:
1. Remove standing water
2. Identify and remove animal carcasses and materials affected by the water
3. Dry out the area
4. Wear protective clothing
5. Clean and disinfect
6. Hire professional help
Remove Any Standing Water
Standing water is a breeding ground for microorganisms, which can become airborne and be inhaled. In addition, floodwater that contains sewage or decaying animal carcasses may also harbor infectious microorganisms. To minimize health problems and lessen structural damage, all standing water should be removed as quickly as possible.
Identify and Remove Animal Carcasses and Materials Affected by the Water
If a flood involves sewage-contaminated water or has animal carcasses floating in it, do not try to save any of the materials as exposure to this kind of water carries the additional hazard of infection with the hepatitis A virus.
Bag and throw away any materials that can trap mold. Also, make sure that there is no asbestos or lead in the materials to be thrown out. Disturbing or removing materials containing asbestos (such as in insulation) or lead (such as in lead-based paint) may result in elevated concentrations of those hazardous materials in the air. Just looking will not yield a definitive answer. Sampling may need to be done to verify the materials' composition.
Some materials tend to absorb and keep water more than others. If these materials get wet and cannot be thoroughly cleaned and dried, discard them. Otherwise, they can remain a source of future microbial growth. Mold may begin growing 24 hours after the materials become wet although there may not be any visible signs of it. Molds are mistakenly considered more of a nuisance than a health threat, but their damage can be long lasting. Examples of water-absorbing materials that must be removed and thrown out include:
Ceiling tiles
Insulation
Paper
Rags
Drywall
Mattresses
Wicker furniture
Straw baskets
Upholstered furniture
Old boxes
Stuffed toys
Drapes
Plaster
Cork bulletin boards
Old clothing
Books
These items can retain water and begin growing mold even if they appear to be dry. Some may become contaminated with mold while wet and continue to be a source of mold spores and exposure even after drying. Flooded carpet, for example, can store mold spores for years. Any carpet if not properly maintained can store mold spores, and flooded carpet allows the mold to grow further. Running fans and opening windows is not enough. Once carpet becomes colonized (mold growing in the material), it needs to be discarded unless professional cleaning can effectively remove the microbiological contaminants.
Remove all drywall and insulation damaged by water at least 12 inches above the high water mark. Visually inspect the wall interior and remove any other materials with visible mold growth. (This step may have to be carried out by a licensed contractor.) This removal of mold-contaminated material from the walls is crucial because both allergic and toxic effects can remain in dead spores.
Dry Out the Area
If areas are wet, yet have not suffered from a flood, set up fans and turn on the HVAC system to help dry things out. It is important to do this because microorganisms like mold can quickly begin growing in materials. These can later be released into the air and trigger allergies and asthma attacks along with other health problems. If humidity levels are increased for a long time then dust mites may grow. Dust mites prefer humidity levels above 60 percent.
Be patient! The proper drying out process can take a long time.
In large buildings, the typical drying out period may be 7 to 10 days. It is imperative to not only dry the building, but to dry it out correctly. Drying out large buildings is a very complex process and will require the help of professionals. Believe it or not, if a building is dried out too quickly, interior furnishing materials can become damaged.
If the structure does not have electricity, do not use internal combustion engines indoors since they can quickly emit deadly levels of carbon monoxide. Examples include gasoline-powered generators, camp stoves and lanterns, or charcoal-burning devices. Do not use combustion devices designed for outdoor use inside, even in an emergency, since that can be deadly!
Dress the Part
Because mold may have begun growing in some of the materials that will be removed, be sure to wear appropriate protective clothing. Cleaning up mold can be hazardous to health since mold counts are typically 10 to 1,000 times higher than background levels during the cleaning of mold damaged materials. Here are some steps to follow:
* Wear a dust mask or particulate respirator (sometimes referred to as a N95 or TC-21C particulate respirator) to keep from breathing in airborne spores. However, remember this type of mask will not protect the persion wearing it from the vapors of cleaning or bleach solutions that can irritate eyes, nose, and throat, and damage clothing and shoes. In addition to protective equipment, make sure the working area is ventilated well.
* Wear eye-protection
* Wear gloves. While removing materials, cover rubber gloves that may tear easily with work gloves. Be sure to wear gloves when using cleaning and disinfecting solutions.
* Wear sturdy waterproof boots to protect the feet from hazards, which may not visible in dirty floodwater.
* Wear protective clothing that is easily cleaned or discarded
Clean and Disinfect
All surfaces that are exposed to food, children or pets will need to be thoroughly cleaned. Also clean and disinfect non-porous materials such as glass, plastic or metal. Materials such as the tops of metal desks or file cabinets and concrete, cement, or tile floors can be cleaned using a solution
of one (1) part bleach to 10 parts water. Be sure the area is well ventilated.
* Ask staff or bystanders to leave when these areas are being cleaned.
* Before beginning to clean off any mold, try cleaning a small test patch of it first. If you feel that this adversely affected your health, you should consider paying a licensed contractor or professional to carry out the work.
* Use soap/detergent and hot water or a commercial cleaner. DO NOT APPLY ANY AMMONIA-BASED PRODUCTS! Ammonia or ammonia-based cleaners should not be used since residual ammonia can encourage mold growth.
* Thoroughly scrub all contaminated surfaces (use a stiff brush to clean block walls) with an excessive amount of soap/detergent.
* Rinse well with water
* After thorough cleaning and rinsing, disinfect the area. To disinfect, use a solution of 10 percent household bleach (for example, one (1) cup bleach per five (5) gallons of water) and a little detergent. (The detergent will help with the dirt and oil on the surface and act as a surfactant to help thoroughly wet all surfaces). NEVER MIX BLEACH AND AMMONIA SINCE THEY CAN FORM DEADLY VAPORS!
* Bleach solution should be applied with a handheld garden sprayer. For large exterior areas, you can spray using a garden hose and nozzle but avoid excessive amount of runoff or standing bleach.
* When disinfecting a large structure, make sure the entire surface is wetted (floors, joists and posts). Use a brush or broom to force the solution into crevices.
* Be sure you wash and disinfect the walls, floors, closets, shelves, and contents. The HVAC system should be evaluated for mold contamination and professional help engaged to handle the evaluation and cleaning of the system.
* Work over short time spans and rest in a fresh air location. Provide continuous and controlled ventilation in work area, with the area of contamination kept at a negative pressure in relationship with the rest of the home. Iin other words, air should flow from clean to dirty areas.
* Allow bleach solution to dry naturally for a six to eight hours.
* Air out the house (and the building if windows can be opened) out for about two to three days after the work. Increase airflow in the house by moving furniture away from walls and opening closet doors. Consider increasing outdoor airflow in buildings in which windows cannot be opened.
Hire Professional Help
Most mold remediation guidelines advise that if the area of mold growth is larger than 10 sq. ft. to hire a professional contractor to remove the mold and any contaminated materials. But be careful! After a major storm, unqualified opportunists may offer to help. Be wary of people who drive through neighborhoods offering help in cleaning up or repairs. Be sure that any contractors that are hired for cleanup or repairs are qualified to do the job. Check their credentials and their references. Insurance adjusters may be able to assist in finding reputable and qualified contractors.
Tips on Mold Avoidance - Chicago IL 708-255-2438
Molds (sometimes called “moulds” or “mildew”) are a diverse subgroups of fungi, a classification which also includes mushrooms, yeasts, rusts and smuts. The term “mold” usually refers to fungi that appear as woolly or powdery growths on stored fruits or grow in damp areas of the home (e.g., bathrooms). Although molds are often viewed as food spoilers and causers of plant and human diseases, they, like bacteria, are nature’s organic decomposers in the biotic food chain. Molds are also used in the production of certain foods (e.g., bread, cheese, mushrooms), alcohol, and antibiotics.
Under optimal conditions, a single mold spore can germinate and produce a fungal colony with hundreds of thousands of spores in 4 to 9 days. To grow and thrive a fungus requires organic matter and water. The organic matter can almost be any carbon-containing material, such as plant matter, cotton, wood, hemp, wool, leather, soil, house dust or paints. Water can be in the form of standing water, condensation, dampness, or high humidity. Fungi can survive in humidity ranges from 0% to 100% but flourish in the 65% to 85% range. Most allergenic molds release their spores into the atmosphere during dry conditions (humidity below 70%); however, some allergenic fungi (certain mushrooms and Ascomycetes) prefer an environment with high humidity for spore release.
Mold allergy is similar to pollen allergy in its symptoms and treatment. However, the growth and spore dispersal of many molds are not as seasonal as that of pollen, and most molds can grow indoors as well as outdoors. People who are allergic to molds may have symptoms that persist for long periods of time, recur several times throughout the year, or are associated with specific environments where molds flourish.
Indoor Mold Spores
Mold colonies may not be large or colorful enough to be seen with the naked eye, but mold growth should be suspected in the following locations:
Areas where “musty” or “moldy” odors are detected
Areas with poor circulation, such as basements, closets, and other storage areas; closed-up cabins, summer homes and boat cabins.
Locations where flooding has occurred, especially on rugs and under padding, wood floors, baseboards, paperbacked wallboard (gypsum board), wallpaper.
Sites where constant dampness is a problem: leaky plumbing around toilets, under sinks and dishwashers; leaking roofs; poorly sealed basements; inadequately ventilated bathrooms; poorly vented clothes dryers; refrigerator drip pans; air conditioner or dehumidifier condensate reservoirs.
Indoor house plants and aquariums.
Stuffed furniture, pillows, mattresses, old stuffed toys, wool carpets, stored paper products (books, magazines), stored clothing and bedding.
Anywhere dust or soil accumulates in the home. (Counts can be very high during vacuuming).
Outdoor Mold Spores
High concentrations of outdoor mold spores generally are associated with certain conditions or situations:
The air is relatively free of mold spores in the northern latitudes during periods of freezing temperatures.
Increased mold spore concentrations can be found in late summer and fall as annual plants die and decomposing leaves begin to pile beneath trees and shrubs.
High concentrations of Ascomycetes fungal spores can occur during intermittent rains and for 3 to 4 days after a rainstorm.
Soaring mushroom (toadstool) spore counts will be evident in the spring and fall, 1 to 4 days after a rainstorm.
High mold spore counts can be found in garden areas, decomposing leaf or plant debris piles, and compost piles, as well as during lawn mowing and raking.
Elevated mold spore counts can be found in agricultural areas, especially during harvest and around barns, silos, and baled or stacked hay.
Mold colonies can grow on the north side of a home, on windows next to outdoor plant debris, or on outside walls that are covered by or adjacent to growing plants.
Because molds can appear to be everywhere, complete avoidance of their spores is impossible, but taking a few basic precautions can reduce exposure considerably.
Indoor Mold Spore Avoidance
Fungal colonization and fungal spore densities within the home can be decreased by altering the conditions under which fungi thrive. Precautions include:
Decreasing available water. The amount of water available for mold growth can be decreased by repairing plumbing and roofing, sealing basement walls where they contact outside soil, removing plant and leaf litter next to the home, and decreasing indoor moisture. Indoor humidity can be lowered by increasing ventilation; using dehumidifiers, silica gel, or incandescent lights in small rooms (e.g., closets); air-conditioning; removing aquariums and indoor houseplants; and using home mist vaporizers only infrequently.
Elimination of organic material. The organic materials on which molds grow indoors can be eliminated or decreased by:
Removing dust and soil frequently with standard house cleaning methods (vacuum or wet mop);
Removing older stuffed furniture, toys, wool rugs, cotton window coverings, and stored paper products;
Sealed clothing in plastic bags, encasing mattresses and pillows in vinyl, discarding older mattresses and pillows.
Removing indoor houseplants, wicker baskets, just and hemp products;
Using synthetic (e.g., vinyl, plastic) furnishings and textiles for home decoration;
Cleaning refrigerator drip pans, air-conditioner coils and condensate pans, and dehumidifier reservoirs frequently;
Changing filters in forced air systems regularly.
Use of fungicides. Fungicides intended for agricultural or nursery use can be used sparingly outside the home with the advice of a nurseryman or agricultural agent. Unfortunately, there are no long-lasting, safe fungicides that can be used inside the home. Common household germicides (e.g., Lysol™ or Tylex™) can help kill many indoor molds. Ordinary bleach, at 50% to full strength, can decontaminate basement and bathroom floors and walls as well as other areas where bleach will not damage home furnishings or paint. Special mold retardants are available as paint additives and can be purchased through retail paint suppliers.
Air filtration. Air filtration, either as part of an existing forced air system or as a portable single room system, has been shown to be very effective in lowering indoor spore and pollen densities. Two recommended types include high efficiency mechanical filtration or electronic precipitation filtration, either of which can be obtained through local heating and air-conditioning suppliers.
Outdoor Mold Spore Avoidance
Exposure to high concentrations of outdoor mold spores can be reduced by:
Avoiding piles of leaves and decaying vegetation, gardens, compost piles, and other areas associated with high mold spore counts.
Removing dense vegetation or plant debris from areas close to outside walls or windows of the home.
Avoiding lawn mowing or raking.
Avoiding agricultural areas (especially at harvest time), barns, stored grains, stacked hay.
Limiting the amount of time spent outdoors during times of high mold spore concentrations; wearing a face mask if necessary.
In summary, mold-sensitive individuals can decrease their exposure to allergenic molds by:
Reducing the humidity in the home
Decreasing the amount of organic material in the indoor environment
Using fungicides (sparingly and only outdoors) or common household germicides.
Considering the use of high-efficiency air filtration
Avoiding outdoor areas known to be associated with high mold spore densities
Limiting the amount of time spent outdoors during times of high mold counts.
Under optimal conditions, a single mold spore can germinate and produce a fungal colony with hundreds of thousands of spores in 4 to 9 days. To grow and thrive a fungus requires organic matter and water. The organic matter can almost be any carbon-containing material, such as plant matter, cotton, wood, hemp, wool, leather, soil, house dust or paints. Water can be in the form of standing water, condensation, dampness, or high humidity. Fungi can survive in humidity ranges from 0% to 100% but flourish in the 65% to 85% range. Most allergenic molds release their spores into the atmosphere during dry conditions (humidity below 70%); however, some allergenic fungi (certain mushrooms and Ascomycetes) prefer an environment with high humidity for spore release.
Mold allergy is similar to pollen allergy in its symptoms and treatment. However, the growth and spore dispersal of many molds are not as seasonal as that of pollen, and most molds can grow indoors as well as outdoors. People who are allergic to molds may have symptoms that persist for long periods of time, recur several times throughout the year, or are associated with specific environments where molds flourish.
Indoor Mold Spores
Mold colonies may not be large or colorful enough to be seen with the naked eye, but mold growth should be suspected in the following locations:
Areas where “musty” or “moldy” odors are detected
Areas with poor circulation, such as basements, closets, and other storage areas; closed-up cabins, summer homes and boat cabins.
Locations where flooding has occurred, especially on rugs and under padding, wood floors, baseboards, paperbacked wallboard (gypsum board), wallpaper.
Sites where constant dampness is a problem: leaky plumbing around toilets, under sinks and dishwashers; leaking roofs; poorly sealed basements; inadequately ventilated bathrooms; poorly vented clothes dryers; refrigerator drip pans; air conditioner or dehumidifier condensate reservoirs.
Indoor house plants and aquariums.
Stuffed furniture, pillows, mattresses, old stuffed toys, wool carpets, stored paper products (books, magazines), stored clothing and bedding.
Anywhere dust or soil accumulates in the home. (Counts can be very high during vacuuming).
Outdoor Mold Spores
High concentrations of outdoor mold spores generally are associated with certain conditions or situations:
The air is relatively free of mold spores in the northern latitudes during periods of freezing temperatures.
Increased mold spore concentrations can be found in late summer and fall as annual plants die and decomposing leaves begin to pile beneath trees and shrubs.
High concentrations of Ascomycetes fungal spores can occur during intermittent rains and for 3 to 4 days after a rainstorm.
Soaring mushroom (toadstool) spore counts will be evident in the spring and fall, 1 to 4 days after a rainstorm.
High mold spore counts can be found in garden areas, decomposing leaf or plant debris piles, and compost piles, as well as during lawn mowing and raking.
Elevated mold spore counts can be found in agricultural areas, especially during harvest and around barns, silos, and baled or stacked hay.
Mold colonies can grow on the north side of a home, on windows next to outdoor plant debris, or on outside walls that are covered by or adjacent to growing plants.
Because molds can appear to be everywhere, complete avoidance of their spores is impossible, but taking a few basic precautions can reduce exposure considerably.
Indoor Mold Spore Avoidance
Fungal colonization and fungal spore densities within the home can be decreased by altering the conditions under which fungi thrive. Precautions include:
Decreasing available water. The amount of water available for mold growth can be decreased by repairing plumbing and roofing, sealing basement walls where they contact outside soil, removing plant and leaf litter next to the home, and decreasing indoor moisture. Indoor humidity can be lowered by increasing ventilation; using dehumidifiers, silica gel, or incandescent lights in small rooms (e.g., closets); air-conditioning; removing aquariums and indoor houseplants; and using home mist vaporizers only infrequently.
Elimination of organic material. The organic materials on which molds grow indoors can be eliminated or decreased by:
Removing dust and soil frequently with standard house cleaning methods (vacuum or wet mop);
Removing older stuffed furniture, toys, wool rugs, cotton window coverings, and stored paper products;
Sealed clothing in plastic bags, encasing mattresses and pillows in vinyl, discarding older mattresses and pillows.
Removing indoor houseplants, wicker baskets, just and hemp products;
Using synthetic (e.g., vinyl, plastic) furnishings and textiles for home decoration;
Cleaning refrigerator drip pans, air-conditioner coils and condensate pans, and dehumidifier reservoirs frequently;
Changing filters in forced air systems regularly.
Use of fungicides. Fungicides intended for agricultural or nursery use can be used sparingly outside the home with the advice of a nurseryman or agricultural agent. Unfortunately, there are no long-lasting, safe fungicides that can be used inside the home. Common household germicides (e.g., Lysol™ or Tylex™) can help kill many indoor molds. Ordinary bleach, at 50% to full strength, can decontaminate basement and bathroom floors and walls as well as other areas where bleach will not damage home furnishings or paint. Special mold retardants are available as paint additives and can be purchased through retail paint suppliers.
Air filtration. Air filtration, either as part of an existing forced air system or as a portable single room system, has been shown to be very effective in lowering indoor spore and pollen densities. Two recommended types include high efficiency mechanical filtration or electronic precipitation filtration, either of which can be obtained through local heating and air-conditioning suppliers.
Outdoor Mold Spore Avoidance
Exposure to high concentrations of outdoor mold spores can be reduced by:
Avoiding piles of leaves and decaying vegetation, gardens, compost piles, and other areas associated with high mold spore counts.
Removing dense vegetation or plant debris from areas close to outside walls or windows of the home.
Avoiding lawn mowing or raking.
Avoiding agricultural areas (especially at harvest time), barns, stored grains, stacked hay.
Limiting the amount of time spent outdoors during times of high mold spore concentrations; wearing a face mask if necessary.
In summary, mold-sensitive individuals can decrease their exposure to allergenic molds by:
Reducing the humidity in the home
Decreasing the amount of organic material in the indoor environment
Using fungicides (sparingly and only outdoors) or common household germicides.
Considering the use of high-efficiency air filtration
Avoiding outdoor areas known to be associated with high mold spore densities
Limiting the amount of time spent outdoors during times of high mold counts.
Humidity Testing And Mold Problems In Hot Humid Climates -Chicago IL
In hot humid climates, such as are encountered in tropical and sub tropical regions around the world proper humidity testing and control can be crucial to properly understanding and solving a mold problem.
In fact many coastal homes in Florida and the South East experience mold problems in the absence of any leaks. Many homeowners and even mold inspectors fail to properly understand the connection between common building defects that cause humidity and the buildings mold problems. Sometimes large oceanfront mansions have constant or reoccurring mold problems that go on for many years.
According to all the reliable text and experts including but not limited to Bioaerosols Assessment and Control, Institute of Inspection Cleaning Restoration Certification S500, and S520, EPA Guidelines and many more mold can become a problem when humidity goes above 60% to 65% RH. Pleases note that 60% RH is not optimal but may be just barely adequate humidity levels to support a small amount of the most drought tolerant molds. The higher the humidity, the more mold growth will occur.
Humidity levels that are too low also cause problems. Humidity levels below 30% cause dry lips, dry throats, and other increased health complaints such as drying mucous membranes and an increased risk of catching colds. Low humidity can also increase static electricity that can in return damage computer data. To be on the safe side, keep your humidity between 30% and 60% RH.
A few species of xerotorlant pen asp mold are commonly found indoors. Xerotorlant is just a fancy was of saying drought tolerant. I like to call these molds humidity molds. These molds by definition do not require as much moisture as other molds, but they still require moisture. They can grow in the absence of leaks by simply living on the humidity content (ERH) that they absorb from growth surfaces in humid environments.
Simply, here is how it works. Humidity in the air absorbs into the growth surface such as drywall, wood or clothes, the humidity levels in these substrates known as equilibrium relative humidity goes up in direct proportion to the humidity in the air. This causes the available moisture content (wA) in the substrate to go up. Thus, the humidity in the air eventually ends up being absorbed into the clothes in your closet and into the drywall in your home and then by the mold.
Humidity in and of itself causing mold growth is not the only concern from elevated humidity. It will also prevent proper drying of wet surfaces when leaks occur. If you own an ocean front property in Florida, Louisiana, or the Carolinas, and have high indoor humidity and a leak occurs then you are courting trouble. Especially, if you are out of town when all this occurs because the leak will not dry up before mold sets in.
This inspector (DW) often finds two types of xerotorlant molds, again these molds do not require much water but only what they get from humidity. One specific type of humidity loving xerotorlant pen / asp mold grows on dark black clothes and black leather shoes and purses. Why does this mold like black clothes? It grows on all clothes but it is almost always completely invisible on other clothes because the mold forms small white circles about 1/8 inch across that only shows up on black clothes. This mold loves clothes, luggage, leather, wicker items and sometimes walls. It starts out first in your closet because drying air circulation is typically lower in closets.
If you find your mold inspector inspecting you shoes and clothes don't freak out, he is just doing his job.
One important fact is that this mold when it first starts may be almost completely invisible to the untrained eye, yet it has been demonstrated to cause seriously elevated spore levels in the air, furthermore you may be wearing this mold on your clothes and the mild odors associated with it everyday and suffering from allergenic reactions as a result long before you find out what is happening.
The other most common xerotorlant humidity mold that I know of that grows in humid indoor environments but does not require leaks is a slow growing golden tan form of pen /asp. Specifically it is a type of Aspergillus that loves to grow on painted wood, painted drywall, and on books, it also forms colonies about 1/8 inch across and like the white mold above is not found around leaks. If you find your mold inspector looking at your books he is likely not reading but may be inspecting for these mold colonies. If you are familiar with faxing or yellowing of old books and documents you already have an idea of what this mold looks like. This mold and the oxidation of paper that results in faxing are likely sometimes confused with each other.
There are many ways that humidity or moisture can be measured in the air. Inspectors utilize two methods on a regular basis during comprehensive mold testing and humidity testing investigations.
Relative Humidity
Relative Humidity compares how much water vapor is present in the air to how much water vapor would be in the air if the air were saturated with water vapor.
Mixing Ratio
Mixing Ratio also measures the amount of water vapor in the air. But, mixing ratio measures the mass of water vapor for a given mass of dry air. We typically express it as grains of moisture per pound of dry air. That is grains not grams.
RH vs. MIXING RATIO
There is a strange phenomenon to take into consideration when measuring the amount of water in the air using relative humidity - the colder a parcel of air is, the more humid it becomes, even if you do not add water to it. And the warmer a parcel of air is, the less humid it becomes, even if you do not remove water from it.
When measuring the amount of moisture in air using mixing ration, temperature will not change the inspectors readings, thus the inspector should use mixing ratio measurements in hot or cold spaces so temperature changes do not affect the readings.
Example I:
Inside an attic in a tropical region the temperature may be 100° F and the humidity may be 50% RH. This is an acceptable humidity level if all you consider is relative humidity. Many Florida mold testing investigators may not think anything of this; however, with the use of, a good quality humidity meter or a cheaper meter and a psychometric chart, we see that this hot 100° F air at 50%RH actually contains about 145 grains of moisture per pound of air. That is a some what high amount of moisture to have in your attic, if it is raining outside it may not be unusual but if this amount of moisture is always in your attic you may have a problem; in fact, if a cold front moved in and the temperature dropped to 88° F in that attic at night, the relative humidity would be 70%RH. These are wonderful conditions for many molds and bacteria, and they will accept your invitation to take up residence.
If a few nights later the temperature drops to 78° F in the evening without the addition of any new moisture from outside, the humidity would go up to 100% in your attic, at this point, condensation would form. Metal may rust, and mold would grow on the outer surfaces of your attics ductwork if conditions are not improved.
Example II:
Inside a hot attic that receives humid breezes from the ocean via the attics soffit vents the attic temperature may be 100° F and the humidity may be 50% RH. This is an acceptable humidity level if all you consider is relative humidity. This hot 100° F air at 50%RH actually contains about 145 grains of moisture per pound of air. That is a some what high amount of moisture to have in your attic, in may not cause a problem in your attic but if you live near the breezy ocean in South East Asia, Hawaii, Florida or the South Eastern United States it may be like this in your attic much of the summer.
If the ocean breezes entering your attic via the soffit vents pressurizes your attic and blows this humid attic air into your hallow wall voids and into the house via a loose fitting attic access or via top hat light openings in the ceiling then the air will encounter indoor temperatures of around 78° F.
Without the addition of any new moisture from outside, the humidity in the attic air that escapes into your house would go up to 100%, at this point condensation would form and cause mold growth on cooler ceilings where the air is escaping from the attic, or at the top areas of closets where circulations is poor. This condition confuses many of our clients and even other mold inspectors and eludes attempts at correcting the problem sometimes for years or decades.
So now what?
If you have humidity related mold do not just keep wiping it off your shoes, one day you will find that is has spread to your clothes, furniture, walls, books, and artwork. Do not ignore it and do not hire a cheap mold inspector to take a few quick air samples you will just be wasting your money and time.
If you want your problem properly assessed you are going to need a comprehensive building investigation that is designed to put all the pieces together, it must be conducted by an engineer, licensed mold assessor, industrial hygienist, or certified indoor environmentalist, who has some knowledge of building construction, HVAC systems, complex humidity issues, and mold ecology. The person you hire is going to have to find out where the humidity is coming from then they are going to have to advise you on some ways to keep it from getting in.
In attention they are going to need to assess your HVAC system to assure that it is properly drying your air.
In fact many coastal homes in Florida and the South East experience mold problems in the absence of any leaks. Many homeowners and even mold inspectors fail to properly understand the connection between common building defects that cause humidity and the buildings mold problems. Sometimes large oceanfront mansions have constant or reoccurring mold problems that go on for many years.
According to all the reliable text and experts including but not limited to Bioaerosols Assessment and Control, Institute of Inspection Cleaning Restoration Certification S500, and S520, EPA Guidelines and many more mold can become a problem when humidity goes above 60% to 65% RH. Pleases note that 60% RH is not optimal but may be just barely adequate humidity levels to support a small amount of the most drought tolerant molds. The higher the humidity, the more mold growth will occur.
Humidity levels that are too low also cause problems. Humidity levels below 30% cause dry lips, dry throats, and other increased health complaints such as drying mucous membranes and an increased risk of catching colds. Low humidity can also increase static electricity that can in return damage computer data. To be on the safe side, keep your humidity between 30% and 60% RH.
A few species of xerotorlant pen asp mold are commonly found indoors. Xerotorlant is just a fancy was of saying drought tolerant. I like to call these molds humidity molds. These molds by definition do not require as much moisture as other molds, but they still require moisture. They can grow in the absence of leaks by simply living on the humidity content (ERH) that they absorb from growth surfaces in humid environments.
Simply, here is how it works. Humidity in the air absorbs into the growth surface such as drywall, wood or clothes, the humidity levels in these substrates known as equilibrium relative humidity goes up in direct proportion to the humidity in the air. This causes the available moisture content (wA) in the substrate to go up. Thus, the humidity in the air eventually ends up being absorbed into the clothes in your closet and into the drywall in your home and then by the mold.
Humidity in and of itself causing mold growth is not the only concern from elevated humidity. It will also prevent proper drying of wet surfaces when leaks occur. If you own an ocean front property in Florida, Louisiana, or the Carolinas, and have high indoor humidity and a leak occurs then you are courting trouble. Especially, if you are out of town when all this occurs because the leak will not dry up before mold sets in.
This inspector (DW) often finds two types of xerotorlant molds, again these molds do not require much water but only what they get from humidity. One specific type of humidity loving xerotorlant pen / asp mold grows on dark black clothes and black leather shoes and purses. Why does this mold like black clothes? It grows on all clothes but it is almost always completely invisible on other clothes because the mold forms small white circles about 1/8 inch across that only shows up on black clothes. This mold loves clothes, luggage, leather, wicker items and sometimes walls. It starts out first in your closet because drying air circulation is typically lower in closets.
If you find your mold inspector inspecting you shoes and clothes don't freak out, he is just doing his job.
One important fact is that this mold when it first starts may be almost completely invisible to the untrained eye, yet it has been demonstrated to cause seriously elevated spore levels in the air, furthermore you may be wearing this mold on your clothes and the mild odors associated with it everyday and suffering from allergenic reactions as a result long before you find out what is happening.
The other most common xerotorlant humidity mold that I know of that grows in humid indoor environments but does not require leaks is a slow growing golden tan form of pen /asp. Specifically it is a type of Aspergillus that loves to grow on painted wood, painted drywall, and on books, it also forms colonies about 1/8 inch across and like the white mold above is not found around leaks. If you find your mold inspector looking at your books he is likely not reading but may be inspecting for these mold colonies. If you are familiar with faxing or yellowing of old books and documents you already have an idea of what this mold looks like. This mold and the oxidation of paper that results in faxing are likely sometimes confused with each other.
There are many ways that humidity or moisture can be measured in the air. Inspectors utilize two methods on a regular basis during comprehensive mold testing and humidity testing investigations.
Relative Humidity
Relative Humidity compares how much water vapor is present in the air to how much water vapor would be in the air if the air were saturated with water vapor.
Mixing Ratio
Mixing Ratio also measures the amount of water vapor in the air. But, mixing ratio measures the mass of water vapor for a given mass of dry air. We typically express it as grains of moisture per pound of dry air. That is grains not grams.
RH vs. MIXING RATIO
There is a strange phenomenon to take into consideration when measuring the amount of water in the air using relative humidity - the colder a parcel of air is, the more humid it becomes, even if you do not add water to it. And the warmer a parcel of air is, the less humid it becomes, even if you do not remove water from it.
When measuring the amount of moisture in air using mixing ration, temperature will not change the inspectors readings, thus the inspector should use mixing ratio measurements in hot or cold spaces so temperature changes do not affect the readings.
Example I:
Inside an attic in a tropical region the temperature may be 100° F and the humidity may be 50% RH. This is an acceptable humidity level if all you consider is relative humidity. Many Florida mold testing investigators may not think anything of this; however, with the use of, a good quality humidity meter or a cheaper meter and a psychometric chart, we see that this hot 100° F air at 50%RH actually contains about 145 grains of moisture per pound of air. That is a some what high amount of moisture to have in your attic, if it is raining outside it may not be unusual but if this amount of moisture is always in your attic you may have a problem; in fact, if a cold front moved in and the temperature dropped to 88° F in that attic at night, the relative humidity would be 70%RH. These are wonderful conditions for many molds and bacteria, and they will accept your invitation to take up residence.
If a few nights later the temperature drops to 78° F in the evening without the addition of any new moisture from outside, the humidity would go up to 100% in your attic, at this point, condensation would form. Metal may rust, and mold would grow on the outer surfaces of your attics ductwork if conditions are not improved.
Example II:
Inside a hot attic that receives humid breezes from the ocean via the attics soffit vents the attic temperature may be 100° F and the humidity may be 50% RH. This is an acceptable humidity level if all you consider is relative humidity. This hot 100° F air at 50%RH actually contains about 145 grains of moisture per pound of air. That is a some what high amount of moisture to have in your attic, in may not cause a problem in your attic but if you live near the breezy ocean in South East Asia, Hawaii, Florida or the South Eastern United States it may be like this in your attic much of the summer.
If the ocean breezes entering your attic via the soffit vents pressurizes your attic and blows this humid attic air into your hallow wall voids and into the house via a loose fitting attic access or via top hat light openings in the ceiling then the air will encounter indoor temperatures of around 78° F.
Without the addition of any new moisture from outside, the humidity in the attic air that escapes into your house would go up to 100%, at this point condensation would form and cause mold growth on cooler ceilings where the air is escaping from the attic, or at the top areas of closets where circulations is poor. This condition confuses many of our clients and even other mold inspectors and eludes attempts at correcting the problem sometimes for years or decades.
So now what?
If you have humidity related mold do not just keep wiping it off your shoes, one day you will find that is has spread to your clothes, furniture, walls, books, and artwork. Do not ignore it and do not hire a cheap mold inspector to take a few quick air samples you will just be wasting your money and time.
If you want your problem properly assessed you are going to need a comprehensive building investigation that is designed to put all the pieces together, it must be conducted by an engineer, licensed mold assessor, industrial hygienist, or certified indoor environmentalist, who has some knowledge of building construction, HVAC systems, complex humidity issues, and mold ecology. The person you hire is going to have to find out where the humidity is coming from then they are going to have to advise you on some ways to keep it from getting in.
In attention they are going to need to assess your HVAC system to assure that it is properly drying your air.
Tuesday, July 27, 2010
How to Cleanup Sewage Damage? Chicago IL 708-255-2438
How to cleanup sewage damage - Chicago IL 708-255-2438
It is scary to think about but sewage damage can happen in your home at anytime. If there is a sewage back up you must take immediate action because it is not an ordinary flooded basement situation. Sewage backup contains contaminants that can not only harm your home but also harm your family especially anyone with compromised immunity systems such as the elderly and your children.
Your best option to clean it up is to call a professional water damage restoration company as soon as possible. Do not worry if it is late at night or a Sunday or holiday. Water damage clean up companies are open twenty four hours a day and are accustomed to these kinds of sewage emergencies.
The types of organisms that fester and thrive in raw sewage are numerous and you want them out of your home and away from your family and pets as soon as possible. It can contain: hepatitis, bacteria and salmonella. Trained and certified professionals know best how to contain the contaminated area and remove all of it from your home.
If you are lucky enough to have the spill contained in your tiled bathroom the process for cleaning up is much simpler. However if the sewage had flooded in to other parts of your home you will remove all the soaked items . This removal process should include carpets and the carpet padding and any upholstered furniture. Carpet and upholstery cleaning will not be sufficient to remove all the contaminants and odors you will incur as a result.
To clean up damage in your home you will need to do more than just remove all the saturated items . Your home also needs to go through a thorough disinfecting process. This process is necessary to remove all the disease and odor causing organisms that are now unfortunately in your home. Professional sewage clean up companies are your best bet for this job and again you want to do complete the disinfection as soon as possible to prevent any health problems for your family.
Fire Cleanup Services - Chicago IL 708-255-2438
Fire Cleanup Services - Chicago IL 708-255-2438
Fire clean up can be a huge undertaking after a fire occurs in or near your home or office. Unfortunately, your home does not actually have to bear the brunt of a fire in order for fire clean up to become necessary. Wildfires and brushfires that occur near your residence can cause smoke stains or damage and you may also notice small burns from sparks that have made their way to your home. Luckily, this surface damage, while frustrating, is more easily remedied than a full fire clean up.
Whether a fire in or outside of your home has affected your home's condition, there are some important points to remember when attempting to complete a fire clean up. First, all linens and textiles should be cleaned (unless they are fire damaged) in order to get out possibly toxic odors. It is always best to have a professional evaluate the situation and determine the best method of cleaning in order to salvage your possessions and avoid health complications from mixing cleansers with possible toxic substances that may be found in your textiles.
Any salvageable carpets or area rugs, mattresses or cushioned furniture will need to be steam cleaned by a professional. You should also call in a heating, ventilating and air conditioning (HVAC) specialist to clean out the ductwork and check the whole heat/air system before you use it again.
Furniture that is not burned but has smoke or soot on it may be able to be restored. In order to prevent the growth of mold spores in your home, make sure your fire clean up plan includes mopping or wet vacuuming any standing water and allowing wet furniture to dry thoroughly.
If your electricity was turned off during the fire, it is possible that your perishable food items are not good and need to be discarded. Canned food products may still be good if the heat from the fire did not cause them to burst or bulge. These canned goods should be washed thoroughly before being eaten in order to remove any particles of soot or smoke or any airborne toxic chemical.
While many fires cause irreparable damage to homes, possessions and heirlooms, not every item that appears unsalvageable actually is. In order to determine which of your belongings can be saved, be sure to call a professional fire clean up service. Don’t needlessly discard furniture, books and mementos without first finding out if they are able to be salvaged
Fire clean up can be a huge undertaking after a fire occurs in or near your home or office. Unfortunately, your home does not actually have to bear the brunt of a fire in order for fire clean up to become necessary. Wildfires and brushfires that occur near your residence can cause smoke stains or damage and you may also notice small burns from sparks that have made their way to your home. Luckily, this surface damage, while frustrating, is more easily remedied than a full fire clean up.
Whether a fire in or outside of your home has affected your home's condition, there are some important points to remember when attempting to complete a fire clean up. First, all linens and textiles should be cleaned (unless they are fire damaged) in order to get out possibly toxic odors. It is always best to have a professional evaluate the situation and determine the best method of cleaning in order to salvage your possessions and avoid health complications from mixing cleansers with possible toxic substances that may be found in your textiles.
Any salvageable carpets or area rugs, mattresses or cushioned furniture will need to be steam cleaned by a professional. You should also call in a heating, ventilating and air conditioning (HVAC) specialist to clean out the ductwork and check the whole heat/air system before you use it again.
Furniture that is not burned but has smoke or soot on it may be able to be restored. In order to prevent the growth of mold spores in your home, make sure your fire clean up plan includes mopping or wet vacuuming any standing water and allowing wet furniture to dry thoroughly.
If your electricity was turned off during the fire, it is possible that your perishable food items are not good and need to be discarded. Canned food products may still be good if the heat from the fire did not cause them to burst or bulge. These canned goods should be washed thoroughly before being eaten in order to remove any particles of soot or smoke or any airborne toxic chemical.
While many fires cause irreparable damage to homes, possessions and heirlooms, not every item that appears unsalvageable actually is. In order to determine which of your belongings can be saved, be sure to call a professional fire clean up service. Don’t needlessly discard furniture, books and mementos without first finding out if they are able to be salvaged
What is Black Mold - Chicago IL 708-255-2438
What is Black Mold - Chicago IL 708-255-2438
If you are experiencing black mold in your home, it would be best for you to call a professional to check out your house and see if it is indeed black mold, and the best route to go about removing the black mold. Known scientifically as Stachybotrys Atra, it is a possibly-deadly type of mold that is found in areas of increased moisture and a lack of ventilation. You may hear it referred to by others as either mildew or as toxic mold. It can look furry or powdery in appearance.
Black mold needs two different conditions in order to survive and multiple. The first is moisture and the second thing is food. Not the type of food you’re thinking of, instead, it is the surface that it is on. As the mold eats into the surface, it releases Volatile Organic Compounds (often shortened as VOCs). Exposure to these VOCs can lead to a large majority of health problems. If you are suffering from any of these symptoms or problems, that you see a medical professional immediately. Some of those problems include:
Coughing and other respiratory problems,
Nausea
Memory loss,
Asthma
Allergies
Lung damage,
and more…
Moisture is another major factor that causes black mold to grow and continue to grow. Areas that have higher humidity, as well as areas that do not get proper ventilation are possible sites for the growth of black mold. The bathroom is a major area where black mold is common, because of the shower. That is why it is important to make sure that a fan is on the whole time you are in the shower, as well as for up to 20 minutes after the shower. Another area that moisture collects is in the window sill. If you keep your blinds closed for too long of a time, moisture can collect and is a perfect breeding ground for mold.
Depending on how much the mold has multiplied and grown, you may be able to take care of the problem yourself. One household solution to remove black mold is to buy a mildew or mold cleaning spray from your local store. Different products from different companies work best in various situations. Try a few of them before calling a professional if there isn’t a lot of mold. If you suspect that there is a lot of mold, it would be best to call a black mold removal company before they are trained to be able to handle jobs that are larger. By going with a professional, you ensure that the problem is taken care of, as well as keeping yourself and your family safe during the black mold removal process.
If you are experiencing black mold in your home, it would be best for you to call a professional to check out your house and see if it is indeed black mold, and the best route to go about removing the black mold. Known scientifically as Stachybotrys Atra, it is a possibly-deadly type of mold that is found in areas of increased moisture and a lack of ventilation. You may hear it referred to by others as either mildew or as toxic mold. It can look furry or powdery in appearance.
Black mold needs two different conditions in order to survive and multiple. The first is moisture and the second thing is food. Not the type of food you’re thinking of, instead, it is the surface that it is on. As the mold eats into the surface, it releases Volatile Organic Compounds (often shortened as VOCs). Exposure to these VOCs can lead to a large majority of health problems. If you are suffering from any of these symptoms or problems, that you see a medical professional immediately. Some of those problems include:
Coughing and other respiratory problems,
Nausea
Memory loss,
Asthma
Allergies
Lung damage,
and more…
Moisture is another major factor that causes black mold to grow and continue to grow. Areas that have higher humidity, as well as areas that do not get proper ventilation are possible sites for the growth of black mold. The bathroom is a major area where black mold is common, because of the shower. That is why it is important to make sure that a fan is on the whole time you are in the shower, as well as for up to 20 minutes after the shower. Another area that moisture collects is in the window sill. If you keep your blinds closed for too long of a time, moisture can collect and is a perfect breeding ground for mold.
Depending on how much the mold has multiplied and grown, you may be able to take care of the problem yourself. One household solution to remove black mold is to buy a mildew or mold cleaning spray from your local store. Different products from different companies work best in various situations. Try a few of them before calling a professional if there isn’t a lot of mold. If you suspect that there is a lot of mold, it would be best to call a black mold removal company before they are trained to be able to handle jobs that are larger. By going with a professional, you ensure that the problem is taken care of, as well as keeping yourself and your family safe during the black mold removal process.
Mold Remediation Guidelines - Chicago IL 708-255-2438
Mold Remediation Guidelines - Chicago IL 708-255-2438
Concern about indoor exposure to mold has been increasing as the public becomes aware that exposure to mold can cause a variety of health effects and symptoms, including allergic reactions. This document presents guidelines for the remediation/cleanup of mold and moisture problems in facilities at NC State University including measures designed to protect the health of building occupants and remediators.
Mold can be found almost anywhere; it can grow on virtually any organic substance, as long as moisture and oxygen are present. There is mold that can grow on wood, paper, carpet, foods, and insulation. When excessive moisture accumulates in buildings or on building materials, mold growth will often occur, particularly if the moisture problem remains undiscovered or unaddressed. It is impossible to eliminate all mold and mold spores in the indoor environment. However, mold growth can be controlled indoors by controlling moisture indoors.
Since mold requires water to grow, it is important to prevent moisture problems in buildings. Moisture problems can have many causes, including uncontrolled humidity. Some moisture problems in buildings have been linked to changes in building construction practices during the 1970s, 80s, and 90s. Some of these changes have resulted in buildings that are tightly sealed, but may lack adequate ventilation, potentially leading to moisture buildup. Building materials, such as drywall, may not allow moisture to escape easily. Moisture problems may include roof leaks, landscaping or gutters that direct water into or under the building, and unvented combustion appliances. Delayed maintenance or insufficient maintenance are also associated with moisture problems in schools and large buildings. Moisture problems in portable classrooms and other temporary structures have frequently been associated with mold problems.
Prevention
Fix leaky plumbing and leaks in the building envelope as soon as possible.
Watch for condensation and wet spots. Fix source(s) of moisture problem(s) as soon as possible.
Prevent moisture due to condensation by increasing surface temperature or reducing the moisture level in air (humidity). To increase surface temperature, insulate or increase air circulation. To reduce the moisture level in air, repair leaks, increase ventilation (if outside air is cold and dry), or dehumidify (if outdoor air is warm and humid).
Keep heating, ventilation, and air conditioning (HVAC) drip pans clean, flowing properly, and unobstructed.
Vent moisture-generating appliances, such as dryers, to the outside where possible.
Maintain low indoor humidity, below 60% relative humidity (RH), ideally 30-50%, if possible.
Perform regular building/HVAC inspections and maintenance as scheduled.
Clean and dry wet or damp spots within 48 hours.
Don't let foundations stay wet. Provide drainage and slope the ground away from the foundation.
Hidden Mold
In some cases, indoor mold growth may not be obvious. It is possible that mold may be growing on hidden surfaces, such as the backside of dry wall, wallpaper, or paneling, the top of ceiling tiles, the underside of carpets and pads, etc. Possible locations of hidden mold can include pipe chases and utility tunnels (with leaking or condensing pipes), walls behind furniture (where condensation forms), condensate drain pans inside air handling units, porous thermal or acoustic liners inside ductwork, or roof materials above ceiling tiles (due to roof leaks or insufficient insulation).
Some building materials, such as dry wall with vinyl wallpaper over it or wood paneling, may act as vapor barriers, trapping moisture underneath their surfaces and thereby providing a moist environment where mold can grow. You may suspect hidden mold if a building smells moldy, but you cannot see the source, or if you know there has been water damage and building occupants are reporting health problems. Investigating hidden mold problems may be difficult and will require caution when the investigation involves disturbing potential sites of mold growth—make sure to use PPE.
For example, removal of wallpaper can lead to a massive release of spores from mold growing on the underside of the paper. If you discover hidden mold, you should revise your remediation plan to account for the total area affected by mold growth.
Remediation Plan
Assess the size of the mold or moisture problem and the type of damaged materials before planning the remediation work.
The decision to relocate occupants should consider the size and type of the area affected by mold growth, the type and extent of health effects reported by the occupants, the potential health risks that could be associated with debris, and the amount of disruption likely to be caused by remediation activities. If possible, remediation activities should be scheduled during off-hours when building occupants are less likely to be affected.
Remediation
Fix the water or humidity problem. Complete and carry out repair plan if appropriate. Revise and carry out maintenance plan if necessary. Revise remediation plan as necessary, if more damage is discovered during remediation.
Continue to communicate with building occupants, as appropriate to the situation. Be sure to address all concerns.
Completely clean up mold and dry water-damaged areas. Select appropriate cleaning and drying methods for damaged/ contaminated materials. Carefully contain and remove moldy building materials. Use appropriate Personal Protective Equipment (PPE). Arrange for outside professional support if necessary.
The Key to Mold Control
If you are unsure what to do, or if the item is expensive or of sentimental value, you may wish to consult a specialist. Specialists in furniture repair/restoration, painting, art restoration and conservation, carpet and rug cleaning, water damage, and fire/water restoration are commonly listed in phone books. Be sure to ask for and check references; look for affiliation with professional organizations. Molds Can Damage Building Materials and Furnishings
Cleanup Methods
A variety of mold cleanup methods are available for remediating damage to building materials and furnishings caused by moisture control problems and mold growth. The specific method or group of methods used will depend on the type of material affected. Please note that professional remediators may use some methods not covered in these guidelines;absence of a method in the guidelines does not necessarily mean that it is not useful.
Method 1: Wet Vacuum
Wet vacuums are vacuum cleaners designed to collect water. They can be used to remove water from floors, carpets, and hard surfaces where water has accumulated. They should not be used to vacuum porous materials, such as gypsum board. They should be used only when materials are still wet—wet vacuums may spread spores if sufficient liquid is not present. The tanks, hoses, and attachments of these vacuums should be thoroughly cleaned and dried after use since mold and mold spores may stick to the surfaces.
Method 2: Damp Wipe
Whether dead or alive, mold is allergenic, and some molds may be toxic. Mold can generally be removed from nonporous (hard) surfaces by wiping or scrubbing with water, or water and detergent. It is important to dry these surfaces quickly and thoroughly to discourage further mold growth. Instructions for cleaning surfaces, as listed on product labels, should always be read and followed. Porous materials that are wet and have mold growing on them may have to be discarded. Since molds will infiltrate porous substances and grow on or fill in empty spaces or crevices, the mold can be difficult or impossible to remove completely.
Method 3: HEPA Vacuum
HEPA (High-Efficiency Particulate Air) vacuums are recommended for final cleanup of remediation areas after materials have been thoroughly dried and contaminated materials removed. HEPA vacuums are also recommended for cleanup of dust that may have settled on surfaces outside the remediation area. Care must be taken to assure that the filter is properly seated in the vacuum so that all the air must pass through the filter. When changing the vacuum filter, remediators should wear PPE to prevent exposure to the mold that has been captured. The filter and contents of the HEPA vacuum must be disposed of in well-sealed plastic bags.
Method 4: Discard
Remove Damaged Materials and Seal in Plastic Bags
Building materials and furnishings that are contaminated with mold growth and are not salvageable should be double-bagged using 6-mil polyethylene sheeting. These materials can then usually be discarded as ordinary construction waste. It is important to package mold contaminated materials in sealed bags before removal from the containment area to minimize the dispersion of mold spores throughout the building. Large items that have heavy mold growth should be covered with polyethylene sheeting and sealed with duct tape before they are removed from the containment area.
Always use gloves and eye protection when cleaning up mold!
Concern about indoor exposure to mold has been increasing as the public becomes aware that exposure to mold can cause a variety of health effects and symptoms, including allergic reactions. This document presents guidelines for the remediation/cleanup of mold and moisture problems in facilities at NC State University including measures designed to protect the health of building occupants and remediators.
Mold can be found almost anywhere; it can grow on virtually any organic substance, as long as moisture and oxygen are present. There is mold that can grow on wood, paper, carpet, foods, and insulation. When excessive moisture accumulates in buildings or on building materials, mold growth will often occur, particularly if the moisture problem remains undiscovered or unaddressed. It is impossible to eliminate all mold and mold spores in the indoor environment. However, mold growth can be controlled indoors by controlling moisture indoors.
Since mold requires water to grow, it is important to prevent moisture problems in buildings. Moisture problems can have many causes, including uncontrolled humidity. Some moisture problems in buildings have been linked to changes in building construction practices during the 1970s, 80s, and 90s. Some of these changes have resulted in buildings that are tightly sealed, but may lack adequate ventilation, potentially leading to moisture buildup. Building materials, such as drywall, may not allow moisture to escape easily. Moisture problems may include roof leaks, landscaping or gutters that direct water into or under the building, and unvented combustion appliances. Delayed maintenance or insufficient maintenance are also associated with moisture problems in schools and large buildings. Moisture problems in portable classrooms and other temporary structures have frequently been associated with mold problems.
Prevention
Fix leaky plumbing and leaks in the building envelope as soon as possible.
Watch for condensation and wet spots. Fix source(s) of moisture problem(s) as soon as possible.
Prevent moisture due to condensation by increasing surface temperature or reducing the moisture level in air (humidity). To increase surface temperature, insulate or increase air circulation. To reduce the moisture level in air, repair leaks, increase ventilation (if outside air is cold and dry), or dehumidify (if outdoor air is warm and humid).
Keep heating, ventilation, and air conditioning (HVAC) drip pans clean, flowing properly, and unobstructed.
Vent moisture-generating appliances, such as dryers, to the outside where possible.
Maintain low indoor humidity, below 60% relative humidity (RH), ideally 30-50%, if possible.
Perform regular building/HVAC inspections and maintenance as scheduled.
Clean and dry wet or damp spots within 48 hours.
Don't let foundations stay wet. Provide drainage and slope the ground away from the foundation.
Hidden Mold
In some cases, indoor mold growth may not be obvious. It is possible that mold may be growing on hidden surfaces, such as the backside of dry wall, wallpaper, or paneling, the top of ceiling tiles, the underside of carpets and pads, etc. Possible locations of hidden mold can include pipe chases and utility tunnels (with leaking or condensing pipes), walls behind furniture (where condensation forms), condensate drain pans inside air handling units, porous thermal or acoustic liners inside ductwork, or roof materials above ceiling tiles (due to roof leaks or insufficient insulation).
Some building materials, such as dry wall with vinyl wallpaper over it or wood paneling, may act as vapor barriers, trapping moisture underneath their surfaces and thereby providing a moist environment where mold can grow. You may suspect hidden mold if a building smells moldy, but you cannot see the source, or if you know there has been water damage and building occupants are reporting health problems. Investigating hidden mold problems may be difficult and will require caution when the investigation involves disturbing potential sites of mold growth—make sure to use PPE.
For example, removal of wallpaper can lead to a massive release of spores from mold growing on the underside of the paper. If you discover hidden mold, you should revise your remediation plan to account for the total area affected by mold growth.
Remediation Plan
Assess the size of the mold or moisture problem and the type of damaged materials before planning the remediation work.
The decision to relocate occupants should consider the size and type of the area affected by mold growth, the type and extent of health effects reported by the occupants, the potential health risks that could be associated with debris, and the amount of disruption likely to be caused by remediation activities. If possible, remediation activities should be scheduled during off-hours when building occupants are less likely to be affected.
Remediation
Fix the water or humidity problem. Complete and carry out repair plan if appropriate. Revise and carry out maintenance plan if necessary. Revise remediation plan as necessary, if more damage is discovered during remediation.
Continue to communicate with building occupants, as appropriate to the situation. Be sure to address all concerns.
Completely clean up mold and dry water-damaged areas. Select appropriate cleaning and drying methods for damaged/ contaminated materials. Carefully contain and remove moldy building materials. Use appropriate Personal Protective Equipment (PPE). Arrange for outside professional support if necessary.
The Key to Mold Control
If you are unsure what to do, or if the item is expensive or of sentimental value, you may wish to consult a specialist. Specialists in furniture repair/restoration, painting, art restoration and conservation, carpet and rug cleaning, water damage, and fire/water restoration are commonly listed in phone books. Be sure to ask for and check references; look for affiliation with professional organizations. Molds Can Damage Building Materials and Furnishings
Cleanup Methods
A variety of mold cleanup methods are available for remediating damage to building materials and furnishings caused by moisture control problems and mold growth. The specific method or group of methods used will depend on the type of material affected. Please note that professional remediators may use some methods not covered in these guidelines;absence of a method in the guidelines does not necessarily mean that it is not useful.
Method 1: Wet Vacuum
Wet vacuums are vacuum cleaners designed to collect water. They can be used to remove water from floors, carpets, and hard surfaces where water has accumulated. They should not be used to vacuum porous materials, such as gypsum board. They should be used only when materials are still wet—wet vacuums may spread spores if sufficient liquid is not present. The tanks, hoses, and attachments of these vacuums should be thoroughly cleaned and dried after use since mold and mold spores may stick to the surfaces.
Method 2: Damp Wipe
Whether dead or alive, mold is allergenic, and some molds may be toxic. Mold can generally be removed from nonporous (hard) surfaces by wiping or scrubbing with water, or water and detergent. It is important to dry these surfaces quickly and thoroughly to discourage further mold growth. Instructions for cleaning surfaces, as listed on product labels, should always be read and followed. Porous materials that are wet and have mold growing on them may have to be discarded. Since molds will infiltrate porous substances and grow on or fill in empty spaces or crevices, the mold can be difficult or impossible to remove completely.
Method 3: HEPA Vacuum
HEPA (High-Efficiency Particulate Air) vacuums are recommended for final cleanup of remediation areas after materials have been thoroughly dried and contaminated materials removed. HEPA vacuums are also recommended for cleanup of dust that may have settled on surfaces outside the remediation area. Care must be taken to assure that the filter is properly seated in the vacuum so that all the air must pass through the filter. When changing the vacuum filter, remediators should wear PPE to prevent exposure to the mold that has been captured. The filter and contents of the HEPA vacuum must be disposed of in well-sealed plastic bags.
Method 4: Discard
Remove Damaged Materials and Seal in Plastic Bags
Building materials and furnishings that are contaminated with mold growth and are not salvageable should be double-bagged using 6-mil polyethylene sheeting. These materials can then usually be discarded as ordinary construction waste. It is important to package mold contaminated materials in sealed bags before removal from the containment area to minimize the dispersion of mold spores throughout the building. Large items that have heavy mold growth should be covered with polyethylene sheeting and sealed with duct tape before they are removed from the containment area.
Always use gloves and eye protection when cleaning up mold!
How to Clean Up After a Flood - Chicago IL 708-255-2438
How to Clean Up After a Flood - Chicago IL 708-255-2438
When your house floods, the water can wreak havoc on the structure of the house, your personal belongings, and the health of the environment inside your home now and into the future. Faced with no flood insurance and lacking resources, many do not even know where to start.
Here are some tips on cleanup that may help you and I wish you the best in your burdensome and painful mess. Before you start any clean up, and even if you don’t insurance, document everything. If your insurance covers the damage, your agent will tell you when an adjuster will contact you. List damage and take photos or videotape as you clean. You’ll need complete records for insurance claims, applications for disaster assistance and income tax deductions. Apply for the federal money coming into the state. If they tell you to wait to clean up, then wait, but once you have the clearance to clean, here’s a list of common techniques for sanitizing and cleaning flooded items compiled from various expert sources:
Contaminated mud
Flood waters are contaminated and considering the sewage treatment overlfows we’ve had throughout the state, the mud is load with bacteria. Shovel out as much mud as possible, then use a garden sprayer or hose to wash away mud from hard surfaces.
Pump out the basement
If your basement is full or nearly full of water, pump out just 2 or 3 feet of water each day. If you drain the basement too quickly, the pressure outside the walls will be greater than the pressure inside the walls. That may make the walls and floor crack and collapse. Help the drying process by using fans, air conditioning units, and dehumidifiers.
Clean and disinfect every surface. Scrub surfaces with hot water and a heavy-duty cleaner. Then disinfect with a solution of 1/4 cup chlorine bleach per gallon of water or a product that is labeled as a disinfectant to kill germs.
Remove and discard items that cannot be washed and disinfected (such as, mattresses, carpeting, carpet padding, rugs, upholstered furniture, cosmetics, stuffed animals, baby toys, pillows, foam-rubber items, books, wall coverings, and most paper products).
In the kitchen
Immerse glass, porcelain, china, plastic dinnerware and enamelware for 10 minutes in a disinfecting solution of 2 tablespoons of chlorine bleach per gallon of hot water. Air-dry dishes. Do not use a towel.
Disinfect silverware, metal utensils, and pots and pans by boiling in water for 10 minutes. Chlorine bleach should not be used in this case because it reacts with many metals and causes them to darken.
Cupboards and counters need to be cleaned and rinsed with a chlorine bleach solution before storing dishes.
Furniture and household items
Take furniture, rugs, bedding and clothing outside to dry as soon as possible. Use an air conditioner or dehumidifier to remove moisture or open at least two windows to ventilate with outdoor air. Use fans to circulate air in the house. If mold and mildew have already developed, brush off items outdoors to prevent scattering spores in the house. Vacuum floors, ceilings and walls to remove mildew, then wash with disinfectant. Wear a two-strap protective mask to prevent breathing mold spores.
Mattresses should be thrown away.
Upholstered furniture soaks up contaminants from floodwaters and should be cleaned only by a professional.
Wood veneered furniture is usually not worth the cost and effort of repair. Solid wood furniture can usually be restored, unless damage is severe.
Toys and stuffed animals may have to be thrown away if they’ve been contaminated by floodwaters.
Photographs, books and important papers can be frozen and cleaned later. They should be dried carefully and slowly. Wash the mud off and store the articles in plastic bags and put them in a frost-free freezer to protect from mildew and further damage until you have time to thaw and clean them or take them to a professional.
Ceilings and walls
Wallboard acts like a sponge when wet. Remove wallboard, plaster and paneling to at least the flood level. If soaked by contaminated floodwater, it can be a permanent health hazard and should be removed. If most of the wallboard was soaked by clean rainwater, consider cutting a 4- to 12-inch-high section from the bottom and top of walls. This creates a “chimney effect” of air movement for faster drying. A reciprocating saw with a metal cutting blade works well, but use only the tip of the blade and watch out for pipes, ductwork and wiring.
Plaster and paneling can often be saved, but air must be circulated in the wall cavities to dry the studs and sills.
The three kinds of insulation must be treated differently. Styrofoam might only need to be hosed off. Fiberglass batts should be thrown out if muddy but may be reused if dried thoroughly. Loose or blown-in cellulose should be replaced since it holds water for a long time and can lose its antifungal and fire retardant abilities.
Electrical system
The system must be shut off and repaired and inspected by an electrician before it can be turned back on. Wiring must be completely dried out- even behind walls. Switches, convenience outlets, light outlets, entrance panel, and junction boxes that have been under water may be filled with mud.
Heating and cooling systems and ducts-
Will need inspection and cleaning. Flood-soaked insulation should be replaced.
Appliances
Appliances will get stains, odors, silt deposits, and gritty deposits and need to be serviced, cleaned and sanitized. Running equipment before it is properly cleaned could seriously damage it and/or shock you. Professional cleaning is recommended for electronics, TVs and radios, washing machines, dryers, dishwashers, and vacuum cleaners. The hard exterior can be hand cleaned. All metallic appliances that have been flooded should be properly grounded to prevent electric shock. Mud or dirt in a grounded outlet or adapter may prevent the grounding system from working, and you could be electrocuted.
Floors
With wood subflooring, the floor covering (vinyl, linoleum, carpet) must be removed so the subflooring can dry thoroughly which may take several months. Open windows and doors to expose the boards to as much air as possible.
Carpeting
Clean and dry carpets and rugs as quickly as possible. If sewage-contaminated floodwater covered your carpeting, discard it for health safety reasons. Also discard if the carpet was under water for 24 hours or more. To clean, drape carpets and rugs outdoors and hose them down. Work a disinfecting carpet cleaner into soiled spots with a broom. To discourage mildew and odors, rinse with a solution of 2 tablespoons bleach to 1 gallon water, but don’t use this solution on wool or nylon carpets. Dry the carpet and floor thoroughly before replacing the carpet. Padding is nearly impossible to clean so should be replaced. If the carpet can’t be removed, dry it as quickly as possible using a wet/dry vacuum and dehumidifier. Use a fan to circulate air above the carpet, and if possible, lift the carpet and ventilate with fans underneath.
Vinyl flooring and floor tile may need to be removed to allow drying of subfloor.
Wood floors
Wooden floors should be dried gradually. Sudden drying could cause cracking or splitting. Some restoration companies can accelerate drying time by forcing air through the fluted underside of hardwood floorboards. Remove hardwood floor boards to prevent buckling. Remove a board every few feet to reduce buckling caused by swelling. Clean and dry wood before attempting repairs.
Roof damage and leaks
Defective flashing- Flashing is the sheet metal used in waterproofing roof valleys, hips and the angle between a chimney and a roof. Wet spots near a chimney or outside wall may mean the leak is caused by defective flashing, narrow flashing or loose mortar joints. Look for corroded, loose or displaced flashing on sloping roof valleys and at junctions of dormers and roof.
Clogged downspouts or eaves- Check for choked downspouts. Accumulated water or snow on the roof above the flashing may cause a leak. Ice accumulations on eaves sometimes form ridges, which cause melting snow to back up under the shingles.
Cracks and deterioration- Roofing (especially wood or composition shingles) usually deteriorates first on southern exposures. Check southern slopes for cracking or deterioration.
Holes- Missing shingles or holes in the roofing may be causing wet spots. To find holes, check for a drip trail or spot of light coming through in the attic. Stick a nail, straw or wire through the hole to mark the spot on the outside.
Private sewage systems
Flooding of a private sewage system can be a hazardous situation for homeowners. It may lead to a back-up of sewage in the home, contaminated drinking water and lack of sanitation until the system is fixed. When flooding or saturated soil conditions persist, a private sewage system cannot function properly. Soil treatment systems for wastewater rely on aerobic (with oxygen) regions to reduce the amounts of chemicals and living organisms (viruses, bacteria and protozoa). When the soil is saturated or flooded, those hazardous materials can enter the groundwater and your drinking water supply.
As you prepare for the clean up remember to keep children and pets out of the affected area until cleanup has been completed. For yourself, please wear rubber boots, rubber gloves, and goggles during cleanup of affected area. After completing the cleanup, wash your hands with soap and warm water. Use water that has been boiled for 1 minute (allow the water to cool before washing your hands). Wash all clothes worn during the cleanup in hot water and detergent. These clothes should be washed separately from uncontaminated clothes and linens. And remember, seek immediate medical attention if you become injured or ill during or after a clean up.
When your house floods, the water can wreak havoc on the structure of the house, your personal belongings, and the health of the environment inside your home now and into the future. Faced with no flood insurance and lacking resources, many do not even know where to start.
Here are some tips on cleanup that may help you and I wish you the best in your burdensome and painful mess. Before you start any clean up, and even if you don’t insurance, document everything. If your insurance covers the damage, your agent will tell you when an adjuster will contact you. List damage and take photos or videotape as you clean. You’ll need complete records for insurance claims, applications for disaster assistance and income tax deductions. Apply for the federal money coming into the state. If they tell you to wait to clean up, then wait, but once you have the clearance to clean, here’s a list of common techniques for sanitizing and cleaning flooded items compiled from various expert sources:
Contaminated mud
Flood waters are contaminated and considering the sewage treatment overlfows we’ve had throughout the state, the mud is load with bacteria. Shovel out as much mud as possible, then use a garden sprayer or hose to wash away mud from hard surfaces.
Pump out the basement
If your basement is full or nearly full of water, pump out just 2 or 3 feet of water each day. If you drain the basement too quickly, the pressure outside the walls will be greater than the pressure inside the walls. That may make the walls and floor crack and collapse. Help the drying process by using fans, air conditioning units, and dehumidifiers.
Clean and disinfect every surface. Scrub surfaces with hot water and a heavy-duty cleaner. Then disinfect with a solution of 1/4 cup chlorine bleach per gallon of water or a product that is labeled as a disinfectant to kill germs.
Remove and discard items that cannot be washed and disinfected (such as, mattresses, carpeting, carpet padding, rugs, upholstered furniture, cosmetics, stuffed animals, baby toys, pillows, foam-rubber items, books, wall coverings, and most paper products).
In the kitchen
Immerse glass, porcelain, china, plastic dinnerware and enamelware for 10 minutes in a disinfecting solution of 2 tablespoons of chlorine bleach per gallon of hot water. Air-dry dishes. Do not use a towel.
Disinfect silverware, metal utensils, and pots and pans by boiling in water for 10 minutes. Chlorine bleach should not be used in this case because it reacts with many metals and causes them to darken.
Cupboards and counters need to be cleaned and rinsed with a chlorine bleach solution before storing dishes.
Furniture and household items
Take furniture, rugs, bedding and clothing outside to dry as soon as possible. Use an air conditioner or dehumidifier to remove moisture or open at least two windows to ventilate with outdoor air. Use fans to circulate air in the house. If mold and mildew have already developed, brush off items outdoors to prevent scattering spores in the house. Vacuum floors, ceilings and walls to remove mildew, then wash with disinfectant. Wear a two-strap protective mask to prevent breathing mold spores.
Mattresses should be thrown away.
Upholstered furniture soaks up contaminants from floodwaters and should be cleaned only by a professional.
Wood veneered furniture is usually not worth the cost and effort of repair. Solid wood furniture can usually be restored, unless damage is severe.
Toys and stuffed animals may have to be thrown away if they’ve been contaminated by floodwaters.
Photographs, books and important papers can be frozen and cleaned later. They should be dried carefully and slowly. Wash the mud off and store the articles in plastic bags and put them in a frost-free freezer to protect from mildew and further damage until you have time to thaw and clean them or take them to a professional.
Ceilings and walls
Wallboard acts like a sponge when wet. Remove wallboard, plaster and paneling to at least the flood level. If soaked by contaminated floodwater, it can be a permanent health hazard and should be removed. If most of the wallboard was soaked by clean rainwater, consider cutting a 4- to 12-inch-high section from the bottom and top of walls. This creates a “chimney effect” of air movement for faster drying. A reciprocating saw with a metal cutting blade works well, but use only the tip of the blade and watch out for pipes, ductwork and wiring.
Plaster and paneling can often be saved, but air must be circulated in the wall cavities to dry the studs and sills.
The three kinds of insulation must be treated differently. Styrofoam might only need to be hosed off. Fiberglass batts should be thrown out if muddy but may be reused if dried thoroughly. Loose or blown-in cellulose should be replaced since it holds water for a long time and can lose its antifungal and fire retardant abilities.
Electrical system
The system must be shut off and repaired and inspected by an electrician before it can be turned back on. Wiring must be completely dried out- even behind walls. Switches, convenience outlets, light outlets, entrance panel, and junction boxes that have been under water may be filled with mud.
Heating and cooling systems and ducts-
Will need inspection and cleaning. Flood-soaked insulation should be replaced.
Appliances
Appliances will get stains, odors, silt deposits, and gritty deposits and need to be serviced, cleaned and sanitized. Running equipment before it is properly cleaned could seriously damage it and/or shock you. Professional cleaning is recommended for electronics, TVs and radios, washing machines, dryers, dishwashers, and vacuum cleaners. The hard exterior can be hand cleaned. All metallic appliances that have been flooded should be properly grounded to prevent electric shock. Mud or dirt in a grounded outlet or adapter may prevent the grounding system from working, and you could be electrocuted.
Floors
With wood subflooring, the floor covering (vinyl, linoleum, carpet) must be removed so the subflooring can dry thoroughly which may take several months. Open windows and doors to expose the boards to as much air as possible.
Carpeting
Clean and dry carpets and rugs as quickly as possible. If sewage-contaminated floodwater covered your carpeting, discard it for health safety reasons. Also discard if the carpet was under water for 24 hours or more. To clean, drape carpets and rugs outdoors and hose them down. Work a disinfecting carpet cleaner into soiled spots with a broom. To discourage mildew and odors, rinse with a solution of 2 tablespoons bleach to 1 gallon water, but don’t use this solution on wool or nylon carpets. Dry the carpet and floor thoroughly before replacing the carpet. Padding is nearly impossible to clean so should be replaced. If the carpet can’t be removed, dry it as quickly as possible using a wet/dry vacuum and dehumidifier. Use a fan to circulate air above the carpet, and if possible, lift the carpet and ventilate with fans underneath.
Vinyl flooring and floor tile may need to be removed to allow drying of subfloor.
Wood floors
Wooden floors should be dried gradually. Sudden drying could cause cracking or splitting. Some restoration companies can accelerate drying time by forcing air through the fluted underside of hardwood floorboards. Remove hardwood floor boards to prevent buckling. Remove a board every few feet to reduce buckling caused by swelling. Clean and dry wood before attempting repairs.
Roof damage and leaks
Defective flashing- Flashing is the sheet metal used in waterproofing roof valleys, hips and the angle between a chimney and a roof. Wet spots near a chimney or outside wall may mean the leak is caused by defective flashing, narrow flashing or loose mortar joints. Look for corroded, loose or displaced flashing on sloping roof valleys and at junctions of dormers and roof.
Clogged downspouts or eaves- Check for choked downspouts. Accumulated water or snow on the roof above the flashing may cause a leak. Ice accumulations on eaves sometimes form ridges, which cause melting snow to back up under the shingles.
Cracks and deterioration- Roofing (especially wood or composition shingles) usually deteriorates first on southern exposures. Check southern slopes for cracking or deterioration.
Holes- Missing shingles or holes in the roofing may be causing wet spots. To find holes, check for a drip trail or spot of light coming through in the attic. Stick a nail, straw or wire through the hole to mark the spot on the outside.
Private sewage systems
Flooding of a private sewage system can be a hazardous situation for homeowners. It may lead to a back-up of sewage in the home, contaminated drinking water and lack of sanitation until the system is fixed. When flooding or saturated soil conditions persist, a private sewage system cannot function properly. Soil treatment systems for wastewater rely on aerobic (with oxygen) regions to reduce the amounts of chemicals and living organisms (viruses, bacteria and protozoa). When the soil is saturated or flooded, those hazardous materials can enter the groundwater and your drinking water supply.
As you prepare for the clean up remember to keep children and pets out of the affected area until cleanup has been completed. For yourself, please wear rubber boots, rubber gloves, and goggles during cleanup of affected area. After completing the cleanup, wash your hands with soap and warm water. Use water that has been boiled for 1 minute (allow the water to cool before washing your hands). Wash all clothes worn during the cleanup in hot water and detergent. These clothes should be washed separately from uncontaminated clothes and linens. And remember, seek immediate medical attention if you become injured or ill during or after a clean up.
Thursday, July 15, 2010
Mold Damage Misconceptions in Chicago IL 877-604-8324
Mold Damage Misconceptions in Chicago IL 877-604-8324
http://www.hitechnationalfloodrelief.com
Mold Damage Misconceptions - Chicago IL
Many people often think that mold damage is hard to solve. Restoration is not a problem and it's not that difficult either. There are many myths surrounding mold damage restoration. Dealing with mold is a frequent problem in some households and, if you are one of these homeowners, you will have to know a great deal about mold damage and the common misconceptions.
A common misconception is that mold damage can be restored by simple DIY activities. Small spots can be resolved with ease at home but when the damage is severe, it's best to seek professional help. If you try to do it on your own, you might cause more damage to your property. Finding a qualified and trained professional will help you solve the problem quickly.
Immediate action is required because mold overgrowth can cause many health problems and can damage your property severely. Some homeowners try to save money by solving the problem on their own, but then they tend to make the problem even worse! Whereas if they hired professional help, they could have saved money in the long run; don't allow mold to put your family danger. Check regularly for any mold infestation and contact the right professionals at once.
Another common misconception is that bleach is a very effective solution for removing mold. Mold can be temporarily removed using bleach but it may not suit every situation. Most of the commercial bleach products today are diluted and so they are too weak to remove mold. If the surface where the mold is located is porous or rough, bleach may not be the best solution. As time passes, the bleach's concentration is affected. In most cases, bleach products lose 50% of their concentrated ingredients which make them unfit to get rid of mold. There are even times when the mold problems become worse.
These are two of the common misconceptions when it comes to mold damage. If you are still unsure that your home is infested with mold, check again. You can look into the humidifiers, closets, bathroom and other water-prone areas. If you see greenish, blackish or reddish spots, it means that you have mold in your home! Some people take it lightly because they are not aware of the harmful effects of mold to the health of people. Why don't you check out information resources online about molds and you will be surprised to know that they can cause deadly illnesses over time.
Solve your mold problems at once. Determine the level of mold infestation. If it's just a small spot that can still be resolved, then go ahead and remove the mold. When the damage is severe, e.g. the home was flooded due to a natural disaster, it would be impossible to get rid of all the water and dry out the house through DIY methods. This is the time when you need to call for professional help. Check out the local companies that are offering mold damage restoration services. Get a quote and pick the one that can meet all of your needs at a reasonable cost.
http://www.hitechnationalfloodrelief.com
Mold Damage Misconceptions - Chicago IL
Many people often think that mold damage is hard to solve. Restoration is not a problem and it's not that difficult either. There are many myths surrounding mold damage restoration. Dealing with mold is a frequent problem in some households and, if you are one of these homeowners, you will have to know a great deal about mold damage and the common misconceptions.
A common misconception is that mold damage can be restored by simple DIY activities. Small spots can be resolved with ease at home but when the damage is severe, it's best to seek professional help. If you try to do it on your own, you might cause more damage to your property. Finding a qualified and trained professional will help you solve the problem quickly.
Immediate action is required because mold overgrowth can cause many health problems and can damage your property severely. Some homeowners try to save money by solving the problem on their own, but then they tend to make the problem even worse! Whereas if they hired professional help, they could have saved money in the long run; don't allow mold to put your family danger. Check regularly for any mold infestation and contact the right professionals at once.
Another common misconception is that bleach is a very effective solution for removing mold. Mold can be temporarily removed using bleach but it may not suit every situation. Most of the commercial bleach products today are diluted and so they are too weak to remove mold. If the surface where the mold is located is porous or rough, bleach may not be the best solution. As time passes, the bleach's concentration is affected. In most cases, bleach products lose 50% of their concentrated ingredients which make them unfit to get rid of mold. There are even times when the mold problems become worse.
These are two of the common misconceptions when it comes to mold damage. If you are still unsure that your home is infested with mold, check again. You can look into the humidifiers, closets, bathroom and other water-prone areas. If you see greenish, blackish or reddish spots, it means that you have mold in your home! Some people take it lightly because they are not aware of the harmful effects of mold to the health of people. Why don't you check out information resources online about molds and you will be surprised to know that they can cause deadly illnesses over time.
Solve your mold problems at once. Determine the level of mold infestation. If it's just a small spot that can still be resolved, then go ahead and remove the mold. When the damage is severe, e.g. the home was flooded due to a natural disaster, it would be impossible to get rid of all the water and dry out the house through DIY methods. This is the time when you need to call for professional help. Check out the local companies that are offering mold damage restoration services. Get a quote and pick the one that can meet all of your needs at a reasonable cost.
The Invisible Causes of Water Damage In Chicago IL
The Invisible Causes of Water Damage - Chicago IL
http://www.hitechnationalfloodrelief.com
1. Unmonitored Appliances
Appliances such as washers, dryers, dishwashers, and other appliances using water should be checked every couple of years. Failing to properly monitor your appliances could cause a slow leak to form with out your notice, which could become a much bigger problem.
2. Fiberglass Insulation
Some homeowners choose to use fiberglass or other similar materials as "extra insulation" for their basement or another room. While in normal circumstances this would work, if your basement floods for instance, the fiberglass could actually trap moisture in your walls instead. Try opting for alternative insulation in areas more susceptible to flooding, like basements and attics.
3. Unruly Weather
A lot of rain, snow, or ice, can cause quite a problem if there are drafts or leaks in your home you are unaware of. Some times weather damage is not realized for weeks, or even months, because the damage may be hiding within the walls of your home. To prevent this, keep an eye on your roof and around your home during nasty weather to be sure no water is seeping through.
4. Clogged Gutters
While clogged gutters are not an immediate problem, with enough rain fall (or in the summer, a hot day could cause fire damage) they could be. Mass amounts of waters spilling over your gutters can cause serious damage to your roof if the water puddles over the shingles, or t the outside of your home if the water is splashing against the outside of your foundation. Be sure to clean them out at least twice a year to be safe.
5. New Landscaping
New landscaping is always a nice addition to the value and beauty of a home, but sometimes grade and weather are not fully taken in to account. If you have had landscaping done and realize during your first rain since that water is now flowing towards your home, you need to call those landscapers back. If new landscaping causes water to pool around your home, it can cause major structural damage if not adjusted.
6. Faulty Heating Unit or A/C
Old or faulty air conditioning and heating units are amongst the leading cause of water damage, and eventually mold. This is partially because the problem is rarely the unit it self, so it may still work correctly, leading a homeowner to not realize the problem immediately. However, broken drip pans and other malfunctions to your heating or cooling system will become a big problem quickly if not taken care of.
http://www.hitechnationalfloodrelief.com
1. Unmonitored Appliances
Appliances such as washers, dryers, dishwashers, and other appliances using water should be checked every couple of years. Failing to properly monitor your appliances could cause a slow leak to form with out your notice, which could become a much bigger problem.
2. Fiberglass Insulation
Some homeowners choose to use fiberglass or other similar materials as "extra insulation" for their basement or another room. While in normal circumstances this would work, if your basement floods for instance, the fiberglass could actually trap moisture in your walls instead. Try opting for alternative insulation in areas more susceptible to flooding, like basements and attics.
3. Unruly Weather
A lot of rain, snow, or ice, can cause quite a problem if there are drafts or leaks in your home you are unaware of. Some times weather damage is not realized for weeks, or even months, because the damage may be hiding within the walls of your home. To prevent this, keep an eye on your roof and around your home during nasty weather to be sure no water is seeping through.
4. Clogged Gutters
While clogged gutters are not an immediate problem, with enough rain fall (or in the summer, a hot day could cause fire damage) they could be. Mass amounts of waters spilling over your gutters can cause serious damage to your roof if the water puddles over the shingles, or t the outside of your home if the water is splashing against the outside of your foundation. Be sure to clean them out at least twice a year to be safe.
5. New Landscaping
New landscaping is always a nice addition to the value and beauty of a home, but sometimes grade and weather are not fully taken in to account. If you have had landscaping done and realize during your first rain since that water is now flowing towards your home, you need to call those landscapers back. If new landscaping causes water to pool around your home, it can cause major structural damage if not adjusted.
6. Faulty Heating Unit or A/C
Old or faulty air conditioning and heating units are amongst the leading cause of water damage, and eventually mold. This is partially because the problem is rarely the unit it self, so it may still work correctly, leading a homeowner to not realize the problem immediately. However, broken drip pans and other malfunctions to your heating or cooling system will become a big problem quickly if not taken care of.
8 Reason to Call A Water Damage Team in Chicago IL
http://www.hitechnationalfloodrelief.com
877-604-8324
8 Reasons you should call a water damage specialist
1. Mold Problems
If you have a large mold problem, calling a specialist is in your best interest. Leaving a mold problem untreated can result in structural damage to your home and possible thousands in repairs.
2. Mold Detection
If you're not sure if you have a mold problem or not, a water damage specialist can assess the situation for you. After a very rainy season, it's smart to get your house checked for leaks, water damage, and mold regardless of suspicion.
3. Water Removal
If you've encountered a large leak or a flood, a specialist will have all the equipment needed to take care of the situation quickly and simply. If there is a lot of water but you think you can take care of it yourself, assess whether you think structural damage can occur within the extra time it may take you as opposed to a specialist.
4. Drying
After a major leak or flood, it's important to dry out the affected area. If you do not have the enmities to do this, most water damage teams own several large, high power drying fans to prevent further damage.
5. Deodorizing
If a strange smell in your home just won't go away in your home, consider calling a water damage specialist for this as well. Most people don't know they handle strange odors, but they do have anything you're going to need to dispel most bad smells.
6. Restoration
If your home was hit by flood, mildew, mold, or leaks, structural or other damage may have occurred. To guarantee your home looks the same way it used to, call a specialist as they specialize in restoring homes after this particular kind of damage.
7. Sanitation Work
Water damage specialists can also handle septic systems, broken dishwashers, or other plumbing or water utility devices. In some cases, a water specialist may offer much lower prices and more accurate work than a regular plumber.
8. Assessing Damage
Whatever your water damage woes, a water damage specialist is the right person to tell you exactly how bad they are. Before hiring anyone to do any work, make sure you have a pretty good idea of just what is damaged and what needs to be done.
flood damage Chicago IL,water damage cleanup Chicago IL,fire damage cleanup Chicago IL,mold cleanup Chicago IL,sewage damage clean,Water damage up Chicago IL
877-604-8324
8 Reasons you should call a water damage specialist
1. Mold Problems
If you have a large mold problem, calling a specialist is in your best interest. Leaving a mold problem untreated can result in structural damage to your home and possible thousands in repairs.
2. Mold Detection
If you're not sure if you have a mold problem or not, a water damage specialist can assess the situation for you. After a very rainy season, it's smart to get your house checked for leaks, water damage, and mold regardless of suspicion.
3. Water Removal
If you've encountered a large leak or a flood, a specialist will have all the equipment needed to take care of the situation quickly and simply. If there is a lot of water but you think you can take care of it yourself, assess whether you think structural damage can occur within the extra time it may take you as opposed to a specialist.
4. Drying
After a major leak or flood, it's important to dry out the affected area. If you do not have the enmities to do this, most water damage teams own several large, high power drying fans to prevent further damage.
5. Deodorizing
If a strange smell in your home just won't go away in your home, consider calling a water damage specialist for this as well. Most people don't know they handle strange odors, but they do have anything you're going to need to dispel most bad smells.
6. Restoration
If your home was hit by flood, mildew, mold, or leaks, structural or other damage may have occurred. To guarantee your home looks the same way it used to, call a specialist as they specialize in restoring homes after this particular kind of damage.
7. Sanitation Work
Water damage specialists can also handle septic systems, broken dishwashers, or other plumbing or water utility devices. In some cases, a water specialist may offer much lower prices and more accurate work than a regular plumber.
8. Assessing Damage
Whatever your water damage woes, a water damage specialist is the right person to tell you exactly how bad they are. Before hiring anyone to do any work, make sure you have a pretty good idea of just what is damaged and what needs to be done.
flood damage Chicago IL,water damage cleanup Chicago IL,fire damage cleanup Chicago IL,mold cleanup Chicago IL,sewage damage clean,Water damage up Chicago IL
Thursday, July 8, 2010
Flood Safety For Kids - Chicago IL 708-255-2438
Flood Saftey Tips for Kids - Chicago IL 708-255-2438
http://www.hitechnationalfloodrelief.com
Flood Safety Tips
BEFORE A FLOOD: Have a disaster plan and prepare a disaster supplies kit for your home and car. Include a first aid kit, canned food, can opener, bottled water, battery-operated radio, flashlight, protective clothing and written instructions on how to turn off electricity, gas, and water.
DURING A FLOOD: Move to a safe area quickly. Move to higher ground, like the highest floor of your home. Avoid areas subject to sudden flooding like low spots and canyons. Avoid already flooded areas. If a flowing stream of water is above your ankles stop, turn around and go the other way. Do not attempt to drive through a flooded road. The depth of the water is not obvious and the road may be washed away. If your car stalls, leave it and seek higher ground. Rapidly rising water may engulf the car, pick it up and sweep it away. Kids should never play around high water, storm drains or viaducts. Be cautious at night, because its harder to see flood dangers. If told to evacuate, do so immediately.
AFTER THE FLOOD: Always, boil drinking water. Electrical equipment should be checked and dried before used.
http://www.hitechnationalfloodrelief.com
Flood Safety Tips
BEFORE A FLOOD: Have a disaster plan and prepare a disaster supplies kit for your home and car. Include a first aid kit, canned food, can opener, bottled water, battery-operated radio, flashlight, protective clothing and written instructions on how to turn off electricity, gas, and water.
DURING A FLOOD: Move to a safe area quickly. Move to higher ground, like the highest floor of your home. Avoid areas subject to sudden flooding like low spots and canyons. Avoid already flooded areas. If a flowing stream of water is above your ankles stop, turn around and go the other way. Do not attempt to drive through a flooded road. The depth of the water is not obvious and the road may be washed away. If your car stalls, leave it and seek higher ground. Rapidly rising water may engulf the car, pick it up and sweep it away. Kids should never play around high water, storm drains or viaducts. Be cautious at night, because its harder to see flood dangers. If told to evacuate, do so immediately.
AFTER THE FLOOD: Always, boil drinking water. Electrical equipment should be checked and dried before used.
Kid Friendly Fire Safety Tips!! -- Chicago IL 708-255-2438
Kid Friendly Fire Safety Tips!! Chicago IL 708-255-2438
http://www.hitechnationalfloodrelief.com
Have you ever wondered what you would do if there were a fire in your home? I have. Here are some important prevention and safety tips I learned.
Don't touch matches. Stay away from lighters and candles, too.
Don't touch radiators or heaters. Ask a grown-up to turn a heater on or off for you. Don't stand too close to a fireplace or wood stove, either.
Don't play with electrical cords. And don't stick anything into an electrical socket.
Don't play around in the kitchen. If you want to cook something, be sure to check with a grown-up first.
Don't put anything over a lamp. Things thrown over a lamp (like blankets or clothing) could catch fire.
Make an escape plan. Work with your family to plan how to get out of your home if there is a fire.
Plan two ways out of every room. The first way out should be a door.
Choose a meeting place. Pick a safe and easy-to-remember spot outside your home where you will meet your family after you get out.
Practice! Every escape path needs to be planned and practiced with grown-ups.
Test smoke alarms. Help grown-ups remember to test smoke alarms monthly and to put in new batteries twice a year when the clocks change.
If there is a fire:
Get out fast! When you hear the loud beep of the smoke alarm, get out of the house. Never hide or take time to grab your belongings or pets.
Follow your escape plan. After all, you've been practicing!
Feel a door before you open it. If it is hot, there may be fire on the other side. Try to get out another way.
Stay low to the floor. Since smoke rises, the safest air for breathing is down low.
Call 9-1-1 or the fire department. Be sure to do this after you get out of the house. Remember: Only call 9-1-1 if there is a real emergency.
Stay out! Once you're out, stay out. Don't go back for anything!
Stop, Drop, and Roll. If your clothing catches fire, remember to stop where you are and drop to the ground. Cover your face and mouth with your hands, and roll over
http://www.hitechnationalfloodrelief.com
Have you ever wondered what you would do if there were a fire in your home? I have. Here are some important prevention and safety tips I learned.
Don't touch matches. Stay away from lighters and candles, too.
Don't touch radiators or heaters. Ask a grown-up to turn a heater on or off for you. Don't stand too close to a fireplace or wood stove, either.
Don't play with electrical cords. And don't stick anything into an electrical socket.
Don't play around in the kitchen. If you want to cook something, be sure to check with a grown-up first.
Don't put anything over a lamp. Things thrown over a lamp (like blankets or clothing) could catch fire.
Make an escape plan. Work with your family to plan how to get out of your home if there is a fire.
Plan two ways out of every room. The first way out should be a door.
Choose a meeting place. Pick a safe and easy-to-remember spot outside your home where you will meet your family after you get out.
Practice! Every escape path needs to be planned and practiced with grown-ups.
Test smoke alarms. Help grown-ups remember to test smoke alarms monthly and to put in new batteries twice a year when the clocks change.
If there is a fire:
Get out fast! When you hear the loud beep of the smoke alarm, get out of the house. Never hide or take time to grab your belongings or pets.
Follow your escape plan. After all, you've been practicing!
Feel a door before you open it. If it is hot, there may be fire on the other side. Try to get out another way.
Stay low to the floor. Since smoke rises, the safest air for breathing is down low.
Call 9-1-1 or the fire department. Be sure to do this after you get out of the house. Remember: Only call 9-1-1 if there is a real emergency.
Stay out! Once you're out, stay out. Don't go back for anything!
Stop, Drop, and Roll. If your clothing catches fire, remember to stop where you are and drop to the ground. Cover your face and mouth with your hands, and roll over
How to remove mold from walls - Chicago IL 708-255-2438
How to remove mold from walls - Chicago IL 708-255-2438
http://www.hitechnationalfloodrelief.com
How to remove mold from walls
Mold can be found on plants, dry leaves, and on about every other organic material.
The problem is when it gets on your walls...so just how do you remove mold from walls?
Getting mold off your walls can be difficult, but even more difficult is keeping it off.
Not only does the mold look unsightly but if present in large quantities (called colonies), it can even put your health at risk.
To remove mold from your walls, first try to find out where it's coming from. First, look for areas that are moist such as condensation on windows, cracking of walls, warped wood or musty odors.
Then find out if your neighbors also have mold on their walls. If you live in an apartment and your neighbors have mold on their walls the problem could be caused by ‘moisture barriers’ that were, either not properly installed or not installed in the walls and under the slab floor.
The solution for the first problem is to clean up the problem and repair any areas where there is water coming into the house. Areas that may need repairing could be a roof or plumbing leak, or groundwater leaking into your basement. Check your air-conditioning drip pan if there is mold and clean it. Just as your air-duct system could be contaminated with mold. If you see mold in your laundry room, chances are that your dryer is not properly vented to the outside.
Once these are discovered, carry out a thorough cleaning process, scrubbing off the mold and end every damaged source of water that may be directly or indirectly causing the mold through leakage.
M ix a household cleaner with hot water and scrub affected areas, after that mix undiluted chlorine bleach on a sponge and scrub the mold directly.
For the second problem, start removing the siding and install a moisture barrier with the right appropriate materials, like sheet vinyl or aluminum foil wrap. And, again, use a bleach/water mixture and scrub the mold directly.
To remove mold caused by flooding you'll need to get rid of all the drywall, to at least 12 inches above the high water mark. Inspect the internal of the walls to make sure you've removed all mold-infested drywall.
Then, allow the area to dry for 2-3 days, and sanitize with the bleach solution before putting new drywall back.
Mold can also be removed by using stiff brush directly on moldy block walls or uneven surfaces.
To keep the problem under control, avoid drying cloths inside the house. Since dryers generate humidity and expell that humidity inside the house this can also cause mold. Try to connect a vent to your dryer so that it vents outside.
Finally, you can simply apply these simple, three following three methods for a mold-free house:
1) Remove mold and clean surfaces with bleach and water.
2) Keep everywhere dry properly.
3) Create good ventilation.
http://www.hitechnationalfloodrelief.com
How to remove mold from walls
Mold can be found on plants, dry leaves, and on about every other organic material.
The problem is when it gets on your walls...so just how do you remove mold from walls?
Getting mold off your walls can be difficult, but even more difficult is keeping it off.
Not only does the mold look unsightly but if present in large quantities (called colonies), it can even put your health at risk.
To remove mold from your walls, first try to find out where it's coming from. First, look for areas that are moist such as condensation on windows, cracking of walls, warped wood or musty odors.
Then find out if your neighbors also have mold on their walls. If you live in an apartment and your neighbors have mold on their walls the problem could be caused by ‘moisture barriers’ that were, either not properly installed or not installed in the walls and under the slab floor.
The solution for the first problem is to clean up the problem and repair any areas where there is water coming into the house. Areas that may need repairing could be a roof or plumbing leak, or groundwater leaking into your basement. Check your air-conditioning drip pan if there is mold and clean it. Just as your air-duct system could be contaminated with mold. If you see mold in your laundry room, chances are that your dryer is not properly vented to the outside.
Once these are discovered, carry out a thorough cleaning process, scrubbing off the mold and end every damaged source of water that may be directly or indirectly causing the mold through leakage.
M ix a household cleaner with hot water and scrub affected areas, after that mix undiluted chlorine bleach on a sponge and scrub the mold directly.
For the second problem, start removing the siding and install a moisture barrier with the right appropriate materials, like sheet vinyl or aluminum foil wrap. And, again, use a bleach/water mixture and scrub the mold directly.
To remove mold caused by flooding you'll need to get rid of all the drywall, to at least 12 inches above the high water mark. Inspect the internal of the walls to make sure you've removed all mold-infested drywall.
Then, allow the area to dry for 2-3 days, and sanitize with the bleach solution before putting new drywall back.
Mold can also be removed by using stiff brush directly on moldy block walls or uneven surfaces.
To keep the problem under control, avoid drying cloths inside the house. Since dryers generate humidity and expell that humidity inside the house this can also cause mold. Try to connect a vent to your dryer so that it vents outside.
Finally, you can simply apply these simple, three following three methods for a mold-free house:
1) Remove mold and clean surfaces with bleach and water.
2) Keep everywhere dry properly.
3) Create good ventilation.
Wednesday, July 7, 2010
Intro to Molds - Chicago IL
Introduction to Molds - Chicago IL
Molds produce tiny spores to reproduce. Mold spores waft through the indoor and outdoor air continually. When mold spores land on a damp spot indoors, they may begin growing and digesting whatever they are growing on in order to survive. There are molds that can grow on wood, paper, carpet, and foods. When excessive moisture or water accumulates indoors, mold growth will often occur, particularly if the moisture problem remains undiscovered or un-addressed. There is no practical way to eliminate all mold and mold spores in the indoor environment; the way to control indoor mold growth is to control moisture.
Ten Things You Should Know About Mold
Potential health effects and symptoms associated with mold exposures include allergic reactions, asthma, and other respiratory complaints.
There is no practical way to eliminate all mold and mold spores in the indoor environment; the way to control indoor mold growth is to control moisture.
If mold is a problem in your home or school, you must clean up the mold and eliminate sources of moisture.
Fix the source of the water problem or leak to prevent mold growth.
Reduce indoor humidity (to 30-60% ) to decrease mold growth by: venting bathrooms, dryers, and other moisture-generating sources to the outside; using air conditioners and de-humidifiers; increasing ventilation; and using exhaust fans whenever cooking, dishwashing, and cleaning.
Clean and dry any damp or wet building materials and furnishings within 24-48 hours to prevent mold growth.
Clean mold off hard surfaces with water and detergent, and dry completely. Absorbent materials such as ceiling tiles, that are moldy, may need to be replaced.
Prevent condensation: Reduce the potential for condensation on cold surfaces (i.e., windows, piping, exterior walls, roof, or floors) by adding insulation.
In areas where there is a perpetual moisture problem, do not install carpeting (i.e., by drinking fountains, by classroom sinks, or on concrete floors with leaks or frequent condensation).
Molds can be found almost anywhere; they can grow on virtually any substance, providing moisture is present. There are molds that can grow on wood, paper, carpet, and foods.
How do molds affect people?
Some people are sensitive to molds. For these people, exposure to molds can cause symptoms such as nasal stuffiness, eye irritation, wheezing, or skin irritation. Some people, such as those with serious allergies to molds, may have more severe reactions. Severe reactions may occur among workers exposed to large amounts of molds in occupational settings, such as farmers working around moldy hay. Severe reactions may include fever and shortness of breath. Some people with chronic lung illnesses, such as obstructive lung disease, may develop mold infections in their lungs.
Molds can trigger asthma episodes in sensitive individuals with asthma. People with asthma should avoid contact with or exposure to molds.
Mold Cleanup
The most important element in stopping mold from occurring is moisture control. In order to eliminate and prevent mold you must dry water damaged areas and items within 24-48 hours to prevent mold growth. If mold is a problem in your home, the mold must be cleaned and all excess water or moisture eliminated. In order to prevent recurrences, you must fix all leaky plumbing or other sources of water. Mold can be washed off hard surfaces with strong detergent and water, and then dried completely. Absorbent materials (such as ceiling tiles & carpet) that have become moldy will most likely need replacement.
Mold Remediation
Safety Tips While Investigating and Evaluating Mold and Moisture Problems
Do not touch mold or moldy items with bare hands.
Do not get mold or mold spores in your eyes.
Do not breathe in mold or mold spores.
Assess the size of the mold and/or moisture problem and the type of damaged materials before planning the remediation work. Select a remediation manager for medium or large jobs (or small jobs requiring more than one person). The remediation plan should include steps to fix the water or moisture problem, or the problem may reoccur.
Mold Removal
In most cases, you will want to hire a Certified Mold Contractor or Certified Mold Remediator. Dangers from airborne mold are serious, and hiring a professsional is the best step to completely and safely remove mold problems, contamination, and infestation from your home, condominium, rental apartments, office, warehouse, retail store or other real estate buildings.
Effective and safe mold removal, mold remediation, mold mitigation, and mold abatement means:
The mold MUST be contained to the area it is in and not allowed to spread
The mold MUST be killed with biocides
The dead mold MUST be removed from the infected areas
The infected areas MUST be treated to protect against future mold infestations
Molds produce tiny spores to reproduce. Mold spores waft through the indoor and outdoor air continually. When mold spores land on a damp spot indoors, they may begin growing and digesting whatever they are growing on in order to survive. There are molds that can grow on wood, paper, carpet, and foods. When excessive moisture or water accumulates indoors, mold growth will often occur, particularly if the moisture problem remains undiscovered or un-addressed. There is no practical way to eliminate all mold and mold spores in the indoor environment; the way to control indoor mold growth is to control moisture.
Ten Things You Should Know About Mold
Potential health effects and symptoms associated with mold exposures include allergic reactions, asthma, and other respiratory complaints.
There is no practical way to eliminate all mold and mold spores in the indoor environment; the way to control indoor mold growth is to control moisture.
If mold is a problem in your home or school, you must clean up the mold and eliminate sources of moisture.
Fix the source of the water problem or leak to prevent mold growth.
Reduce indoor humidity (to 30-60% ) to decrease mold growth by: venting bathrooms, dryers, and other moisture-generating sources to the outside; using air conditioners and de-humidifiers; increasing ventilation; and using exhaust fans whenever cooking, dishwashing, and cleaning.
Clean and dry any damp or wet building materials and furnishings within 24-48 hours to prevent mold growth.
Clean mold off hard surfaces with water and detergent, and dry completely. Absorbent materials such as ceiling tiles, that are moldy, may need to be replaced.
Prevent condensation: Reduce the potential for condensation on cold surfaces (i.e., windows, piping, exterior walls, roof, or floors) by adding insulation.
In areas where there is a perpetual moisture problem, do not install carpeting (i.e., by drinking fountains, by classroom sinks, or on concrete floors with leaks or frequent condensation).
Molds can be found almost anywhere; they can grow on virtually any substance, providing moisture is present. There are molds that can grow on wood, paper, carpet, and foods.
How do molds affect people?
Some people are sensitive to molds. For these people, exposure to molds can cause symptoms such as nasal stuffiness, eye irritation, wheezing, or skin irritation. Some people, such as those with serious allergies to molds, may have more severe reactions. Severe reactions may occur among workers exposed to large amounts of molds in occupational settings, such as farmers working around moldy hay. Severe reactions may include fever and shortness of breath. Some people with chronic lung illnesses, such as obstructive lung disease, may develop mold infections in their lungs.
Molds can trigger asthma episodes in sensitive individuals with asthma. People with asthma should avoid contact with or exposure to molds.
Mold Cleanup
The most important element in stopping mold from occurring is moisture control. In order to eliminate and prevent mold you must dry water damaged areas and items within 24-48 hours to prevent mold growth. If mold is a problem in your home, the mold must be cleaned and all excess water or moisture eliminated. In order to prevent recurrences, you must fix all leaky plumbing or other sources of water. Mold can be washed off hard surfaces with strong detergent and water, and then dried completely. Absorbent materials (such as ceiling tiles & carpet) that have become moldy will most likely need replacement.
Mold Remediation
Safety Tips While Investigating and Evaluating Mold and Moisture Problems
Do not touch mold or moldy items with bare hands.
Do not get mold or mold spores in your eyes.
Do not breathe in mold or mold spores.
Assess the size of the mold and/or moisture problem and the type of damaged materials before planning the remediation work. Select a remediation manager for medium or large jobs (or small jobs requiring more than one person). The remediation plan should include steps to fix the water or moisture problem, or the problem may reoccur.
Mold Removal
In most cases, you will want to hire a Certified Mold Contractor or Certified Mold Remediator. Dangers from airborne mold are serious, and hiring a professsional is the best step to completely and safely remove mold problems, contamination, and infestation from your home, condominium, rental apartments, office, warehouse, retail store or other real estate buildings.
Effective and safe mold removal, mold remediation, mold mitigation, and mold abatement means:
The mold MUST be contained to the area it is in and not allowed to spread
The mold MUST be killed with biocides
The dead mold MUST be removed from the infected areas
The infected areas MUST be treated to protect against future mold infestations
What to do After A Flood - Chicago IL
Tips to Remember After Flooding Problems
Do
Wash your hands properly if you have been in contact with flood water or silt. Take particular care when preparing or eating food.
Contact your insurance company (if relevant) and make an inventory list of all damaged goods, including food. If you can, take photos or videos of the damages.
Put contaminated, flood damaged food in black plastic garbage bags, seal and put out for the next collection. Check with insurers before disposal.
If you accidentally ingest (swallow) mud or contaminated flood water and you become ill contact your doctor and tell him your house was flooded.
Don't
Don't be tempted to try and salvage damaged food as it may be contaminated with sewage or chemicals left from the flood water. Don't switch on electrical appliances, which have been in contact with the flood water unless a competent electrician has checked them. Your local electric company will be checking the main's supplies.
Don't eat home grown garden or allotment fruit and vegetables that have been covered by flood water. Leave undamaged vegetables in the ground for at least another two weeks and then only use them after thorough washing and cooking.
Don't let young children play on affected grassed or paved areas until they have been cleaned and restored to their normal condition.
Additional Flood Repair Works
Eventually other necessary works may be identified by your insurance company, builders, etc. These will possibly be carried out after the property has substantially dried out after the flood. However, if plaster walls and partitions have been affected badly and do not dry out in a sound condition the plaster and boards affected will have to be removed, walls dried out and re-plastered.
Any areas showing signs of mold should be treated - a professional mold remediation specialist is recommended.
About six months after the flood it would be advisable to check wood floors for any evidence of rot or shrinkage. Any necessary repair work can then be made.
Fitted units, particularly in the kitchen, made of chipboard may not dry out well and will become damaged by absorbed water. Sanitization of these is difficult and therefore they may have to be eventually replaced.
Check for structural damage to your property and if you think there is damage or danger seek advice from your insurer, builder or reputable contractor.
Do
Wash your hands properly if you have been in contact with flood water or silt. Take particular care when preparing or eating food.
Contact your insurance company (if relevant) and make an inventory list of all damaged goods, including food. If you can, take photos or videos of the damages.
Put contaminated, flood damaged food in black plastic garbage bags, seal and put out for the next collection. Check with insurers before disposal.
If you accidentally ingest (swallow) mud or contaminated flood water and you become ill contact your doctor and tell him your house was flooded.
Don't
Don't be tempted to try and salvage damaged food as it may be contaminated with sewage or chemicals left from the flood water. Don't switch on electrical appliances, which have been in contact with the flood water unless a competent electrician has checked them. Your local electric company will be checking the main's supplies.
Don't eat home grown garden or allotment fruit and vegetables that have been covered by flood water. Leave undamaged vegetables in the ground for at least another two weeks and then only use them after thorough washing and cooking.
Don't let young children play on affected grassed or paved areas until they have been cleaned and restored to their normal condition.
Additional Flood Repair Works
Eventually other necessary works may be identified by your insurance company, builders, etc. These will possibly be carried out after the property has substantially dried out after the flood. However, if plaster walls and partitions have been affected badly and do not dry out in a sound condition the plaster and boards affected will have to be removed, walls dried out and re-plastered.
Any areas showing signs of mold should be treated - a professional mold remediation specialist is recommended.
About six months after the flood it would be advisable to check wood floors for any evidence of rot or shrinkage. Any necessary repair work can then be made.
Fitted units, particularly in the kitchen, made of chipboard may not dry out well and will become damaged by absorbed water. Sanitization of these is difficult and therefore they may have to be eventually replaced.
Check for structural damage to your property and if you think there is damage or danger seek advice from your insurer, builder or reputable contractor.
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